Sunscreen Formula Adjustment for Milky Texture

Question

I would like to produce a sunscreen with a milky liquid texture using the following formula. Does the formula need any adjustments? LipidSoft spf 25% Tinosorb S 5% DHHB 5% Polysilicone 15 5% PMMA Booster 5% Warp Cream Maker XL 5% Magnesium Sulfate 1% Uvinul T150 3% Zinc Oxide (40nm Triethoxycaprlylane coat) 3% Titanium Dioxide Transparent (15nm Dimethicone Coat) 2% Triacontanyl PVP 3% Caprylyl Methicone 5% Beige Iron Oxide 1% Ethyl Ferulate 1% Poly Protect 1% Mild Preserve Eco 1% Gamma Oryzanol 0.5% Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract 0.2% Dl alpha Tocopherol 0.1% Hyaluronic Acid (Large Molecule) 0.05% Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) 0.05% Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) 0.05%

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formula Adjustment for Milky Sunscreen Texture

Based on the formula you provided and the properties of the ingredients, this formula is designed to create a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. Ingredients like Warp Cream Maker XL and Magnesium Sulfate are specifically used to form and stabilize this type of emulsion.

Water-in-oil emulsions typically result in a richer, creamier texture, which is different from the milky, liquid texture you are aiming for. A milky, liquid texture is usually characteristic of a low-viscosity oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion.

To achieve a milky, liquid texture, you would need to significantly modify this formula. This would primarily involve:

Changing the emulsifier system: You would need to replace Warp Cream Maker XL with an emulsifier suitable for creating a low-viscosity oil-in-water emulsion.
Adjusting ingredient levels: The concentrations of ingredients that contribute to viscosity and texture, such as the physical sunscreens (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide Transparent), PMMA Booster, and potentially emollients like LipidSoft and silicones like Caprylyl Methicone, would likely need to be reduced or adjusted.
Considering other ingredients: Ingredients like Triacontanyl PVP (film former), Poly Protect (thickener/film former), and the different molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid also influence texture and stability and might need adjustment. Other ingredients like Tinosorb S, DHHB, Uvinul T150, Beige Iron Oxide, Ethyl Ferulate, Mild Preserve Eco, Gamma Oryzanol, and Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract would need to be incorporated correctly into the new emulsion system while maintaining their efficacy and stability.

Reformulating a sunscreen to change its texture while maintaining its stability and SPF/PA protection is a complex process. It requires careful selection of emulsifiers and precise adjustment of all ingredient percentages. Therefore, this formula would indeed need substantial modification to achieve a milky, liquid texture. It is highly recommended to work with an experienced cosmetic formulator for this type of adjustment.