Sunscreen Formulation: Achieving Gel Texture with High Oil/Silicone Content

Question

I am developing a sunscreen formula and aiming for a clear gel texture. My formula includes a high percentage (around 40%) of oil/silicone components, such as SPF Protect Ultra and LipidSoft Dry. I plan to use Pro Polymer as the gelling agent.

I also want to add significant amounts of active skincare ingredients into this formula.

Will Pro Polymer be able to create a clear gel with this high oil/silicone content?
What kind of texture should I expect from this formulation?
Is it advisable to include a large amount of active ingredients in a sunscreen formula, or should they be in a separate product?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Feedback on Your Sunscreen Gel Formula

Thank you for sharing your proposed sunscreen gel formula and the staff's response. Here's a summary of the feedback and recommendations:

Texture of Your Proposed Formula

Based on the staff's feedback, your formula will likely result in a white cream texture, not a clear or cloudy gel. This is primarily due to the high percentage of the oil/silicone phase (40%) and the nature of the ingredients like SPF Protect Ultra.

Formulation Challenges and Recommendations

Emulsification: The staff noted that Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) is not designed to emulsify such a high percentage of oil/silicone (40%). For formulas with a significant oil phase, an appropriate emulsifier is needed.
Active Ingredients in Sunscreen: The staff recommends minimizing the amount of active skincare ingredients in sunscreen formulas. Sunscreens are best formulated to be lightweight and pleasant to apply. Using a separate serum or moisturizer for active ingredients is often preferred for better texture and stability of the sunscreen.

Staff's Suggested Alternative Formula

The staff proposed an alternative formula that addresses the emulsification challenge and reduces the overall oil phase slightly (to 30% oil phase + 3% emulsifier):

Water: 66%
LipidSoft Dry: 10%
SPF Protect Ultra: 20%
Milk Lotion Maker: 3%
Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%

This formula uses Milk Lotion Maker, which is capable of emulsifying up to 40% oil phase (though it requires heat for mixing).

Resulting Texture

The staff's suggested formula, using an emulsifier like Milk Lotion Maker and containing an oil phase and sunscreen filters, will also result in a lotion or cream texture, not a clear gel.

In summary, achieving a clear gel texture with a high concentration of oil-soluble sunscreen filters and other oil/silicone components is technically challenging. The staff's recommendations focus on creating a stable and functional sunscreen formulation, which typically results in a cream or lotion texture when incorporating an oil phase and emulsifier.