Formulation Analysis and Recommendations

Here is an analysis of your formulations and recommendations based on the ingredients provided:

Formulation 1 Analysis

Your first formulation includes Avobenzone (a UVA filter) and Oxybenzone (a UVB and short UVA filter), which can work together for stability (like in Helioplex technology). It also includes ActiveProtec™ UV, which is a blend containing Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC), Avobenzone, and Ethylhexyl Salicylate, designed to protect formula ingredients from UV.

However, there is a significant compatibility issue: Avobenzone is known to be unstable and can degrade quickly when used in formulas containing OMC, Zinc Oxide, or Titanium Dioxide. Your formula contains both Avobenzone (as a raw ingredient and within ActiveProtec™ UV) and ActiveProtec™ UV (which contains OMC). This combination is likely to cause the Avobenzone to become unstable and lose its effectiveness.

• Can this formula be mixed? While the ingredients can physically be mixed, the chemical incompatibility between Avobenzone and OMC (in ActiveProtec™ UV) will likely lead to instability and reduced sun protection efficacy over time.
• Will it achieve SPF over 50? With 3% Avobenzone and 6% Oxybenzone, SPF 50+ is potentially achievable, but the instability issue due to the presence of OMC makes this uncertain and unreliable.
• What should be added for PA++++? To achieve PA++++, you typically need a strong UVA filter at a sufficient concentration. 3% Avobenzone provides PA+++. To reach PA++++, you would generally need to increase the UVA protection significantly. DHHB is a highly stable UVA filter, and using >7.5% DHHB is typically needed for PA++++. Adding DHHB or replacing Avobenzone with DHHB would be options.
• Can Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid (Gloss) 5-10% be added without problems? No, adding Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid would cause Avobenzone to degrade even faster due to incompatibility. Physical sunscreens like Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide should generally not be used in formulas containing Avobenzone.
• How to adjust % for SPF 50 by reducing other ingredients and cost? To achieve stable SPF 50+ and PA++++ at a potentially lower cost, you would need to reformulate to address the Avobenzone instability. Consider removing Avobenzone and ActiveProtec™ UV. You could then use a combination of stable physical filters like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide along with stable organic filters like DHHB and BEMT. For example, a blend of Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ or Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid (for UVA/UVB), Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid (for UVA/UVB), and DHHB (for PA++++ and UVA stability) could achieve high SPF and PA. The exact percentages would require formulation testing to balance efficacy, texture, and cost.

Formulation 2 Analysis

This formulation uses physical sunscreens Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid and Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid, dispersed in Cyclomethicone, along with water and a preservative blend.

• Can Cyclomethicone be replaced with LipidSoft™ Matte? If so, at what %? You can replace Cyclomethicone with LipidSoft™ Matte. Both are oil-soluble ingredients that contribute to the feel of the product. LipidSoft™ Matte provides a matte finish and emolliency. The percentage would depend on the desired texture, likely in a similar range (e.g., 10-20%). However, note that the Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid and Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid ingredients themselves are dispersions that already contain silicones (Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone derivatives). Replacing the Cyclomethicone base will change the overall feel and stability, and the product will still contain silicones from the dispersed sunscreen ingredients.
• Can this formula be claimed as silicone-free and alcohol-free? No, this formula cannot be claimed as silicone-free because the Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid and Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid ingredients contain silicones as part of their dispersion system. Mild Preserved Eco is alcohol-free, so the formula can be alcohol-free if no other alcohol is added.

Formulation 3 Analysis

This section discusses replacing OMC with LipidSoft™ Matte in various sunscreen combinations.

• If OMC is removed and replaced with LipidSoft™ Matte, can it be done? If so, at what % and what should be added to achieve SPF50 PA++++? Yes, OMC (an organic UVB filter) can be removed and replaced with an emollient like LipidSoft™ Matte. LipidSoft™ Matte can be added in a percentage suitable for achieving the desired texture (e.g., 5-15%). However, removing OMC means you lose its contribution to SPF (UVB protection). To achieve SPF50 PA++++, you need to compensate for the lost UVB protection and ensure sufficient UVA protection for PA++++.

To achieve SPF50 PA++++ without OMC, consider the following:

1. Increase UVA Protection: Increase DHHB to at least 7.5% to achieve PA++++. DHHB is a stable UVA filter compatible with physical sunscreens and BEMT.
2. Increase UVB Protection and Broad Spectrum: Add or increase the percentage of stable broad-spectrum filters like Zinc Oxide (e.g., Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ or Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid) and/or Titanium Dioxide (e.g., Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid). These physical filters provide both UVA and UVB protection and are compatible with DHHB and BEMT. BEMT is another stable organic filter that provides both UVA and UVB protection and can be used up to 10%.

A possible approach could involve a combination like:

• DHHB: 7.5-10% (for PA++++)
• Zinc Oxide (e.g., 200nm EasyDisperse™ or 35nm Liquid): 10-15%
• Titanium Dioxide (e.g., 15nm Liquid): 5-10%
• LipidSoft™ Matte: 5-10% (replacing OMC and for texture)
• Other necessary base ingredients (emulsifiers, water, preservatives, etc.)

The exact percentages would need to be determined through formulation and testing to achieve the desired SPF and PA values, texture, and stability while managing cost.

Remember that achieving specific SPF and PA values requires proper formulation techniques and testing.