Sunscreen Formulation: Emulsifier Choice and Penetration Enhancer

Question

Regarding a sunscreen formula, is the staff's advice correct?

The staff advised:

Not to use PE-1 Aqua in the formula.
To consider using Luxury Cream Maker or Soft Cream Maker (at 3-4%) for creating the cream base, stating that these give higher SPF values compared to purely polymer-based thickeners like Pro Polymer, Light Cream Maker, or Satin Mousse.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Hello!

Regarding the formula and the advice from the MySkinRecipes staff, the staff's recommendations are correct.

Here are the main points:

PE-1 Aqua: The staff advised against using PE-1 Aqua in a sunscreen formula. This is because Penetration Enhancers can help some sunscreen ingredients penetrate the skin, which is generally undesirable as sunscreens should remain on the skin surface to protect it.
Cream Maker (Emulsifier/Thickener): The original formula lacks a key ingredient to create a stable cream base. The staff correctly recommended adding an emulsifier like Luxury Cream Maker (at 3-4%) or Soft Cream Maker. They explained that these types of emulsifiers are more suitable for sunscreen formulations than polymer-based thickeners alone (such as Pro Polymer, Light Cream Maker, Satin Mousse) because they help ensure even dispersion of sunscreen agents, which is crucial for effective UV protection and achieving a high SPF.

Therefore, the staff's advice is correct based on standard sunscreen formulation principles. The formula should be adjusted according to their recommendations for better efficacy and safety.