Sunscreen Formulation for Primer Feel: Emollients, Silicones, and Isododecane

Hello,

Based on the information provided, here is a ranking of the LipidSoft emollients from lightest/driest feel to smoothest/most moisturizing:

1. LipidSoft™ Dry (ID: 656): Provides the driest feel with the least smoothness compared to other types. It's good for oily skin or formulations where dryness is desired along with some softness, without using Silicones.
2. LipidSoft™ Lite (ID: 530): Offers more moisture and smoothness than LipidSoft Dry, with easier spreading. Suitable for normal to oily skin.
3. LipidSoft™ (Regular/Oil Free) (ID: 391): Provides medium smoothness. Can cause skin irritation at concentrations above 20% and has an odor. It is a lower-cost option.
4. LipidSoft™ Moist (ID: 990), LipidSoft™ CC (ID: 409), and LipidSoft™ Palm (ID: 529): These types offer good to maximum smoothness.
   • LipidSoft™ Moist (ID: 990): Provides good smoothness and good moisture, similar to LipidSoft Palm, but with a lighter feel. It is non-clogging and non-irritating. Suitable for formulations needing good moisture with a light, non-clogging feel.
   • LipidSoft™ CC (ID: 409): Offers good to maximum smoothness and medium moisture. It helps formulations spread easily and is non-irritating at any concentration. Suitable for makeup, BB/CC creams, and normal to dry skin.
   • LipidSoft™ Palm (ID: 529): Provides good to maximum smoothness and good moisture. It helps formulations spread easily but can be clogging at high amounts or on acne-prone skin. It is a lower-cost option similar to Fractionated Coconut Oil but with better feel and spreadability. Suitable for dry skin.

Regarding your questions about Isododecane:

• Isododecane vs. LipidSoft feel: Isododecane (ID: 228) has a different structure and feel compared to the LipidSoft family. It is volatile and evaporates at room temperature. This property makes it feel easy to spread initially and leaves a light feel as it evaporates, unlike the non-volatile LipidSofts which provide a more lasting emollient feel.
• Isododecane function: Yes, Isododecane acts as a solvent and helps with the spreadability of formulations. LipidSofts are primarily emollients that provide softness and moisture.
• Isododecane and Titanium Dioxide: Titanium Dioxide (ID: 236) does not dissolve in Isododecane or any other solvent. Isododecane helps to disperse the Titanium Dioxide particles evenly across the skin during application, which is crucial for achieving the stated SPF value.
• Using Isododecane and LipidSoft together in sunscreen: Yes, you can use both Isododecane and LipidSofts in a sunscreen formulation. Isododecane helps the formula spread easily and provides a light feel as it evaporates. However, LipidSofts (or other non-volatile emollients) are necessary to properly coat the physical sunscreen particles (like Titanium Dioxide) on the skin, ensuring they adhere well and provide lasting protection after the volatile Isododecane has evaporated. The combination allows you to fine-tune the texture and feel of the final product.

For your proposed sunscreen formula aiming for a primer-like feel, the staff noted that while it can work, the levels of LipidSoft CC and Dimethicone (ID: 172) might be too low for optimal skin coating needed for makeup adherence. Increasing the proportion of these ingredients could improve the primer effect. You can use LipidSoft CC and Silicones (like Dimethicone or Cyclomethicone (ID: 171)) together or adjust the ratio of different LipidSoft types to achieve the desired soft and smooth feel. Isododecane in this formula would primarily aid in spreadability during application rather than contributing significantly to the lasting primer effect.