Formula Analysis and Mixing Instructions

Based on the ingredients, your original formula contains a high percentage of sunscreens and emollients in the oil phase, along with thickeners in both the water and oil phases. This combination is likely to result in a relatively thick, creamy texture, which might be heavier than the "Watery Essence" feel you desire. The high ethanol and Trisiloxane content will help with lightness and spreadability, but the overall composition leans towards a more substantial cream or lotion.

The staff's suggested formula uses a pre-mixed sunscreen blend (SPF Protect Ultra II) at a lower total percentage than your combined sunscreens, along with specific emulsifiers (Milk Lotion Maker and Satin Cream Maker) and a higher percentage of Trisiloxane. This composition, particularly the choice of emulsifiers and the higher level of volatile silicone (Trisiloxane), is designed to create a lighter, more fluid texture, closer to a milky lotion or a light, fast-absorbing cream, which is likely closer to the Biore texture you are aiming for.

Here are the mixing instructions for both formulas:

Your Original Formula

This formula is an emulsion containing a significant oil phase with multiple sunscreens and emollients, thickened by Dextrin Palmitate and Glyceryl Stearate, and a water phase thickened by Sodium Hyaluronate and Pro Polymer.

Ingredients:

• Water: 51.9%
• Ethanol: 10%
• Sodium Hyaluronate: 0.1%
• Phenoxyethanol: 2%
• OMC: 10%
• C12-15 alkyl benzoate: 10%
• DHHB: 5%
• Ethylhexyl Triazone: 2%
• Oil Thick (Dextrin Palmitate): 1.5%
• Glyceryl stearate: 1%
• BEMT: 0.5%
• Dimethicone: 3%
• Trisiloxane: 1.5%
• Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer): 1.5%

Mixing Instructions:

1. Prepare the Water Phase:

   • Weigh out the Water.
   • Slowly sprinkle Sodium Hyaluronate powder onto the surface of the water while stirring gently (avoid high shear). Continue stirring until dispersed. For optimal hydration, refrigerate for several hours until a gel forms.
   • In a separate container, sprinkle Pro Polymer powder onto a small amount of water. Stir slowly for 3-5 minutes until dispersed. Allow it to hydrate fully (ideally for up to 24 hours), then stir gently to form a smooth gel. Avoid high-speed blending (>2500 rpm) as this can damage the polymer.
   • Combine the hydrated Sodium Hyaluronate gel and the hydrated Pro Polymer gel with the remaining Water. Stir gently to combine.
   • Add Phenoxyethanol to the water phase and stir until fully mixed.

2. Prepare the Oil Phase:

   • Weigh out OMC, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, DHHB, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Oil Thick, Glyceryl stearate, Dimethicone, and Trisiloxane.
   • Combine OMC, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Dimethicone, and Trisiloxane in a heat-resistant beaker.
   • Add the powder sunscreens (DHHB, Ethylhexyl Triazone) and the solid thickeners (Oil Thick, Glyceryl stearate) to the oil mixture.
   • Heat the oil phase to 80°C while stirring to dissolve/melt all the solid components. Maintain the temperature at 80°C for no more than 30 minutes to ensure sunscreen stability.

3. Emulsification:

   • Heat the water phase to approximately 70-80°C (close to the oil phase temperature).
   • Using a homogenizer or high-shear mixer, begin mixing the heated water phase.
   • Slowly add the heated oil phase to the water phase while continuing high-shear mixing.
   • Once all the oil phase is added, continue high-shear mixing for a few minutes to ensure a stable emulsion.
   • Switch to lower speed mixing (paddle stirrer) and continue stirring while the emulsion cools down to below 40°C.

4. Final Steps:

   • Once cooled, the formula is complete.

Staff's Suggested Formula

This formula uses a pre-mixed sunscreen blend and specific emulsifiers designed for lighter textures.

Ingredients:

• SPF Protect Ultra II: 15%
• Milk Lotion Maker: 3%
• Satin Cream Maker: 0.7%
• Water: 65.3%
• Mild Preserved Eco: 1%
• Ethanol: 10%
• Trisiloxane: 5%

Mixing Instructions:

1. Prepare Oil Phase (Part 1+2):

   • Weigh out SPF Protect Ultra II and Milk Lotion Maker.
   • Combine these ingredients in a beaker.
   • Heat the mixture to 70°C and stir until homogeneous. This is your oil phase.

2. Prepare Water Phase (Part 3+4+5):

   • Weigh out Satin Cream Maker, Water, and Mild Preserved Eco.
   • Combine Satin Cream Maker and Water. Blend until a cloudy gel is formed. Avoid high shear (>2500 rpm).
   • Add Mild Preserved Eco to the water/gel mixture and stir to combine.
   • Heat this water phase mixture to 70°C.

3. Emulsification:

   • While mixing the heated oil phase (from step 1), slowly add the heated water phase (from step 2) to it.
   • Continue mixing until fully combined.

4. Cooling and Final Additions:

   • Switch to low-speed mixing and continue stirring while the emulsion cools down to below 50°C.
   • Once cooled below 50°C, add Ethanol and Trisiloxane.
   • Continue mixing until all ingredients are fully incorporated and the mixture is homogeneous.

The staff's suggested formula and method are more likely to achieve a texture closer to the Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence due to the specific emulsifiers and higher volatile silicone content.