Sunscreen Formulation Issues: Emulsifier Capacity and Heat Requirement
Question
I am trying to make a sunscreen using the following ingredients: Water, Light Cream Maker, Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid (15%), and Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid (12%). I encountered issues with the formulation.
Could you explain:
- Why this formula is not working?
- Specifically, what are the limitations regarding the emulsifier (Light Cream Maker) and the total oil phase?
- Is heat required for these ingredients and/or emulsifier?
- Could you provide a working alternative formula suitable for SPF50 sunscreen?
Answer
Sunscreen Formulation Advice
Regarding your sunscreen formula using Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid, Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid, Light Cream Maker, and water, it is not balanced and cannot be made without heat.
Here's why:
- Emulsifier Limitation: Light Cream Maker can only emulsify up to 20% oil. Your formula contains 15% Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid and 12% Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid, totaling 27% oil phase, which exceeds the capacity of Light Cream Maker.
- Heat Requirement: Both Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid and Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid recommend heating to 70°C for proper dispersion and integration into the formula. Additionally, the recommended alternative emulsifier, Milk Lotion Maker, requires heat during the mixing process.
For a balanced formula suitable for sunscreen, consider using an emulsifier that can handle a higher oil load and follow a process that involves heating. The staff recommended an alternative formula using Milk Lotion Maker, which can emulsify up to 40% oil. Here is an example formula based on their suggestion:
SPF50 Sunscreen Example Formula
- Water: 66%
- Milk Lotion Maker: 3%
- LipidSoft: 5%
- Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
- Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid: 25%
In this example, you can replace some of the Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid with Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid to achieve broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection. Remember that Milk Lotion Maker requires heating to 70°C during the mixing process to properly emulsify the oil phase.
Always perform a challenge test on your final formulation to ensure the effectiveness and suitability of the preservative system.
Related Products Mentioned
Light Cream Maker™
Titanium Dioxide 15nm Liquid (Gloss)
Zinc Oxide 35nm Liquid
Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus)
Milk Lotion Maker™