Sunscreen Formulation: Water Resistance, Texture, and BB Effect

ถามโดย: pareepat_bow เมื่อ: September 05, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am formulating a sunscreen with the following ingredients:

  • Zinc 14%
  • Titanium 5%
  • Dimethicone 5%
  • Light Cream Maker 2%
  • Preservative 1%
  • LipidSoft Palm 20%
  • Water (remaining)

I have several questions regarding this formulation and related topics:

  1. Why is there a difference in the SPF value stated for Zinc Oxide (1% = SPF 1.5 on the product page versus 1% = SPF 2.5 in a formula)?
  2. Does using LipidSoft Palm carry a risk of clogging pores?
  3. How can I achieve a BB cream-like whitening and coverage effect for the body, similar to products used by 'pretties'?
  4. How can I make my sunscreen formula water-resistant, especially for swimming?
  5. If I use White Iron Oxides EasyMix for the BB/whitening effect, do I still need Titanium Dioxide at 10% for this purpose?
  6. Could you please review my proposed formula (listed above) and advise on its water resistance, spreadability, and potential oiliness?

คำตอบ

Sunscreen Formulation Questions

Regarding your questions about formulating sunscreen:

  1. Zinc Oxide SPF Discrepancy: The difference in SPF values (1% = SPF 1.5 on the product page vs. 1% = SPF 2.5 in a formula) is likely because combining multiple sunscreen ingredients can boost the overall SPF value. Mixing different sunscreens helps achieve broader spectrum protection and can enhance the SPF effect.

  2. LipidSoft Palm and Clogged Pores: Using LipidSoft Palm carries a risk of clogging pores. Whether it actually clogs pores depends on individual skin type and sensitivity. If you are concerned about clogged pores or have skin that is prone to them, it is advisable to avoid or minimize its use.

  3. BB Effect with White Iron Oxides: To achieve a BB cream-like whitening and coverage effect similar to those used for body whitening, a combination of Mica, White Iron Oxides EasyMix, and a Silicone (like Dimethicone or Silicone Blend) is typically used in a cream base (like one made with Light Cream Maker). You can adjust the level of coverage by changing the amount of Mica and the level of whiteness by changing the amount of White Iron Oxides EasyMix.

  4. Sunscreen Water Resistance: Sunscreens labeled as "easy disperse" offer some degree of water resistance. However, for good water resistance, especially for activities like swimming, formulating a water-in-oil cream using an emulsifier like Water-Capsule is recommended. This creates a cream where the water phase is encapsulated within the oil phase, making it resistant to washing off with water. Another method to improve water resistance is to include a higher amount of Silicone in the formula, which helps the physical sunscreen powders adhere better to the skin.

  5. Titanium Dioxide 10% for BB Effect: If you are using White Iron Oxides EasyMix to achieve the BB/whitening effect, you do not necessarily need Titanium Dioxide for that specific purpose (color/coverage). While Titanium Dioxide is a physical sunscreen that also provides whitening, 10% is a very high concentration and will likely result in a very white appearance. For sun protection, Titanium Dioxide is effective, but for cosmetic whitening/coverage, White Iron Oxides are typically used. If you use Titanium Dioxide for whitening, starting with a lower concentration like 3-5% is suggested, as 5% can already result in significant whiteness.

  6. Review of Your Specific Formula: Your proposed formula (Zinc 14%, Titanium 5%, Dimethicone 5%, Light Cream Maker 2%, Preservative 1%, LipidSoft Palm 20%, Water) will not be water-resistant. However, the high amount of LipidSoft Palm (20%) will help make the cream easy to spread. Be mindful that this concentration of LipidSoft Palm might make the formula feel excessively oily.

Hope this helps with your formulation!

ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง

Light Cream Maker™
Light Cream Maker™
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Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor)
Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor)
เครื่องสำอาง
Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™
Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™
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White Oxides EasyMix™
White Oxides EasyMix™
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LipidSoft™ Palm (Ethylhexyl palmitate)
LipidSoft™ Palm (Ethylhexyl palmitate)
เครื่องสำอาง
Water-Capsule™ (Water-in-Oil Cream)
Water-Capsule™ (Water-in-Oil Cream)
เครื่องสำอาง