Sunscreen Formulation with Water Drop Texture

Asked by: goyohama_toyko On: October 31, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

How can I formulate a sunscreen that creates a "water drop" texture when applied to the skin? What bases or emulsifiers are recommended for achieving this effect, and what types of UV filters should be used?

Could you provide an example formulation, including the ingredients and mixing procedure, for a sunscreen with this texture?

Answer

Water Drop Sunscreen Formulation

To create a sunscreen with a "water drop" texture upon application, you can use special bases or emulsifiers designed for this effect, combined with suitable UV filters.

Two recommended bases for achieving the water drop texture are SiliSolve Plus and Silky Serum Base Plus.

  • SiliSolve Plus: This is a special grade emulsifier (Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone) that effectively combines water, oil, and silicone phases. It is ideal for creating serum or cream textures where the water phase is dominant (70-99%). When formulated correctly, it results in the characteristic water drop effect. It works well even with electrolyte ingredients and stability can be enhanced by adding Magnesium Sulfate (around 1%).

  • Silky Serum Base Plus: This base also helps create a light, fast-absorbing serum texture that can incorporate both water (30-90%) and oil/silicone (up to 30%). It can also produce the water drop feel when water is added to the base+oil/silicone mixture in small increments while stirring.

To make it a sunscreen, you need to add UV filters. A good sunscreen provides broad-spectrum protection (both UVA and UVB). You can use a combination of different types of UV filters:

  • Oil-soluble UV Filters: These are typically mixed into the oil or silicone phase of the formula. Examples include SPF Protect Ultra™ III (provides broad-spectrum UVA+UVB protection and high SPF/PA values) and Homosalate (a UVB filter that also helps dissolve other UV filters).

  • Water-dispersible UV Filters: These can be dispersed in the water phase. Examples include Bisoctrizole (a broad-spectrum filter known as Tinosorb M equivalent) and ZeoBlock™ (a non-nano Zeolite that absorbs UVA/UVB and improves texture).

Example Formulation using SiliSolve Plus:

Here is a basic example using SiliSolve Plus to achieve the water drop effect and a combination of UV filters for sun protection. Note: This is a sample formula. Adjustments may be needed based on desired SPF/PA and texture.

Phase A (Oil/Silicone Phase):

  • SiliSolve Plus: 3%
  • SPF Protect Ultra™ III: 10%
  • Cyclomethicone (or other light silicone/oil): 15%

Phase B (Water Phase):

  • Bisoctrizole: 5%
  • Magnesium Sulfate: 1%
  • Mild Preserved Eco (Preservative): 1%
  • Water: q.s. to 100% (approx. 65%)

Mixing Procedure:

  1. Combine all ingredients in Phase A and stir until homogeneous.
  2. Combine all ingredients in Phase B and stir until homogeneous.
  3. While continuously stirring Phase A, slowly add Phase B in small portions. Continue stirring until the mixture is homogeneous and the water drop texture is achieved.

Remember to always follow recommended usage rates for each ingredient and perform stability testing for your final formulation.