Sunscreen SPF 30 PA+++: White Cast & Texture with SPF Protect Ultra™

Question

I am developing a sunscreen formulation and want to achieve SPF 30 / PA+++. I am concerned about the texture and white cast, especially if using high concentrations of physical filters like Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide. Could you recommend a formulation or ingredients, such as SPF Protect Ultra™, that can provide this protection level with a better texture and minimal white cast?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Sunscreen Formulation Inquiry

Thank you for sharing your sunscreen formulation and mixing method.

Regarding your original formula:

Ingredients: Your formula uses Zinc Oxide (10%) and Titanium Dioxide (5%) as UV filters, totaling 15% physical sunscreens. This combination provides good broad-spectrum protection.
White Cast: As the staff mentioned, using 15% physical filters, even in nano or easy-disperse forms, can often result in a noticeable white cast on the skin, which might not be ideal for daily facial use, especially under makeup.
Other Ingredients: The other ingredients like lipid soft (emollient), Light Cream Maker (emulsifier), silicones (Dimethicone, SiliSolve), preservative (Phenoxyethanol), and colorant (miga) are standard components for a cream formulation.
Mixing Method: Your mixing method, which involves dispersing the physical filters in an oil/emollient phase and preparing a water phase with silicones before emulsifying the two phases gradually, is a generally appropriate approach for creating a stable cream emulsion. The specific proportions in step 6 might need clarification, but the overall process is sound.

Regarding the staff's suggested formula:

The staff proposed an alternative formula using SPF Protect Ultra™ (15%). This ingredient is likely a blend designed to provide high SPF/PA protection (SPF 30 / PA+++ as mentioned) with potentially better aesthetics, such as less white cast and a lighter feel, compared to using high concentrations of raw Zinc and Titanium Dioxide powders.
This formula also includes a cream maker (Light Cream Maker, Luxury Cream Maker, or Satin Mousse), Cyclomethicone (silicone), Phenoxyethanol SA (preservative), and water.
This alternative formula is specifically recommended by the staff for achieving SPF 30 / PA+++ and is likely formulated to be more suitable for daily facial use with less white cast, addressing the concern raised by the staff and user.

Conclusion:
Your original formula provides good sun protection but is likely to leave a white cast. Your mixing method is generally correct. For a daily facial sunscreen aimed at minimizing white cast while achieving SPF 30 / PA+++, the alternative formula suggested by the staff using SPF Protect Ultra™ is likely a more suitable option.