Technical Application and COSMOS Compliance of Velvet Cream Maker™

Question

Hello,

I am developing a natural skincare range and aim to use ingredients compliant with organic certification standards such as Ecocert/COSMOS.

While I understand this specific blend is not certified organic, could you confirm if its individual components—C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate and C20-22 Alcohols—are on the list of approved substances for use in COSMOS-certified formulations?

Additionally, I have a few technical questions regarding its application:

Ionicity: As an anionic emulsifier, what specific precautions should I take regarding ingredient compatibility? Specifically, are there restrictions on certain polymers, gums, or cationic actives?
Compatibility: Can this emulsifier be used in synergy with Moist Cream Maker™ or Montanov 202? If so, what is your recommended ratio to achieve a lightweight, non-greasy texture?
Optimization: Do you recommend any other combinations (COSMOS-compliant) that pair well with Velvet Cream Maker™ to enhance a light, non-sticky skin feel?

Thank you for your technical support.

Answer 1

Regarding your development of a natural skincare range using Velvet Cream Maker™ (e.q. Sensanov WR), here is the technical breakdown for your COSMOS-compliant formulation:

1. COSMOS/Ecocert Compliance

The individual components of this blend are generally accepted in COSMOS-certified formulations:

C20-22 Alcohols: These are fatty alcohols derived from plant sources and are widely approved as Chemically Processed Agro-Ingredients (CPAI).
C20-22 Alkyl Phosphate: This is a phosphate ester of the corresponding fatty alcohols. While synthetic processing is involved, this specific INCI is included in the list of substances allowed by COSMOS (often found in certified commercial benchmarks like Sensanov WR).

Note: While the ingredients are compliant, the final raw material itself must hold a valid certificate from the supplier to be used in a certified organic end-product.*

2. Ionicity and Compatibility

As an anionic emulsifier, it carries a negative charge. You should observe the following precautions:

Cationic Actives/Ingredients: Avoid combining it with cationic (positively charged) ingredients such as Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-10, or Behentrimonium Methosulfate. These will cause the emulsion to "crash" or separate due to complex formation.
Polymers and Gums: It is highly compatible with non-ionic gums (e.g., Xanthan Gum, Guar Gum) and anionic polymers (e.g., Carbomer, Acrylates). Using a small amount of Xanthan Gum (0.2–0.3%) is recommended to enhance long-term stability.
Electrolytes: Like most anionic systems, it has moderate sensitivity to high concentrations of salts (electrolytes). If your formula contains high levels of Sodium PCA or Magnesium Sulfate, ensure you stabilize the water phase with a resistant thickener.

3. Synergy and Texture Optimization

Velvet Cream Maker™ is excellent for creating Liquid Crystal (LC) structures, which mimic the skin's lipid bilayer.

Synergy with Moist Cream Maker™: This is a very effective combination. Moist Cream Maker™ (Cetearyl Glucoside and Cetearyl Alcohol) is non-ionic. Mixing anionic and non-ionic emulsifiers often results in a more robust and stable liquid crystal network.
- Recommended Ratio for Lightweight Feel: Use a 2:1 ratio (e.g., 2% Velvet Cream Maker™ and 1% Moist Cream Maker™). This maintains the matte, "velvet" finish of the primary emulsifier while benefiting from the moisturizing properties of the glucoside.
Synergy with Montanov 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol/Behenyl Alcohol/Arachidyl Glucoside): This combination is ideal for a "vanishing cream" effect. A ratio of 1.5% Velvet Cream Maker™ to 1.5% Arachidyl/Behenyl Glucoside will yield a very light, non-greasy texture with a matte finish.

4. Enhancing a Light, Non-Sticky Feel

To further optimize the skin feel within COSMOS constraints, consider these combinations:

Light Esters: Replace heavy vegetable oils with light, COSMOS-compliant esters like LipidSoft™ Matte (Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate). This significantly reduces stickiness and enhances the "velvet" effect.
Matte Finish: Since Velvet Cream Maker™ naturally provides a matte appearance, it pairs well with mineral sunscreens or pigments, helping them distribute evenly without a heavy white cast.
Water Phase: Keep the glycerin level below 5% to avoid tackiness, or supplement with Propanediol for a cleaner skin feel.

For a lightweight, non-greasy organic-compliant cream, we recommend a total emulsifier concentration of 3-4% combined with 10-15% light esters.