Texture and Stability Issues in Oil-Free Cream/Gel with Electrolytes

Asked by: tanik_fu On: April 08, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to formulate a cream or gel using the following ingredients:

  • Niacinamide 4%
  • NAG 4%
  • Aloevera Extract 2%
  • Lemon peel bioferment
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Water
  • Light Cream Maker™ 1.5%

I want to know if this formula will result in a liquid or thick texture. Also, are the ingredients compatible, especially considering I am using Light Cream Maker™ without an oil phase and with ingredients like Niacinamide, NAG, and Aloevera Extract which might contain electrolytes? What is the suitable pH range for this formula?

Answer

Initial Formula Analysis

Hello, thank you for sharing your formula. I have reviewed the formula and looked up information on the main texture-creating ingredients, specifically Light Cream Maker™ and Pro Polymer™, based on your formula and the advice from cosmeceutical7.

1. Ingredient Compatibility

Generally, the ingredients you listed, such as Niacinamide, NAG, Aloevera Extract, Lemon peel bioferment, Phenoxyethanol, and Water, can be compatible in water-based cosmetic formulas. However, a key component to consider is the Light Cream Maker™ you are using.

Based on the information for Light Cream Maker™ (Product ID 141), it is an Oil-in-Water (O/W) emulsifier and thickener designed for formulas containing an oil phase (up to 20% oil). Although the description mentions it can be used in the water phase alone as a thickener, the example formula provided still includes oil components.

Furthermore, Light Cream Maker™ is sensitive to Electrolytes, which include some ingredients in your formula such as Aloe Vera Extract, Niacinamide, and NAG. These substances can cause the cream texture to become thinner. Using Light Cream Maker™ in a formula with no oil phase and containing electrolytes may lead to stability and texture compatibility issues more easily than in formulas with an oil phase.

As advised by cosmeceutical7, using Light Cream Maker™ in a formula without oil may not be ideal, and it is recommended to consider other cream makers that can form a cream without oil, or switch to making a gel texture instead.

If you wish to create a gel texture, Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) (Product ID 234) is another interesting option. It is a gel-forming substance for water-based formulas and has better resistance to electrolytes than Light Cream Maker™.

2. Suitable pH

Generally, Niacinamide and NAG are stable and function well in the pH range of approximately 5-7, which is a suitable pH range for the skin. Light Cream Maker™ can function over a wide pH range (2.5-11). Therefore, in terms of the pH range that Light Cream Maker™ can operate in, your formula falls within the acceptable range. However, texture stability issues may not solely depend on pH but also on the interaction between Light Cream Maker™ and other ingredients, particularly electrolytes and the absence of an oil phase.

You may need to adjust the pH of the formula to be within the range suitable for the skin and the main active ingredients (around 5-7) after mixing all ingredients. If you use Light Cream Maker™ and encounter issues with a thin texture, you might need to consider adjusting the formula according to the recommendations for electrolytes with Light Cream Maker™ or switch to using a different texture-creating agent.

3. Expected Texture (Liquid or Thick)

Based on the information that Light Cream Maker™ is suitable for formulas with an oil phase and is sensitive to electrolytes, using 1.5% Light Cream Maker™ in a formula with no oil phase and containing electrolytes (Niacinamide 4%, NAG 4%, Aloevera Extract 2%) is highly likely to result in a thinner texture than expected for a cream, or it may not be able to form a stable cream texture as well as it could.

As advised by cosmeceutical7, if you desire a cream texture without oil, you may need to consider other cream makers specifically designed for this purpose, or incorporate an oil phase. If a gel texture is acceptable, using Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) would be a more suitable option for creating texture in this formula.

Conclusion: This formula may face texture stability issues due to the use of Light Cream Maker™ in a formula without an oil phase and containing electrolytes. If a cream texture is desired, consider switching to a different cream maker that is more suitable, or if you wish to keep this formula structure, switching to Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) to achieve a stable gel texture would likely be a better option. Adjusting the pH to around 5-7 is also important for the efficacy and skin compatibility of Niacinamide and NAG.

Related Products Mentioned