Texture Issue in Homemade Hyaluronic Gel Due to High Active Concentration

Asked by: prattiyap On: June 22, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

My homemade 'Double Hyaluronic (Hyaluron) Gel' formulation, which includes ingredients like Azelaic Acid (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate) and Sodium PCA, and has a total active ingredient concentration of approximately 48%, resulted in an oily or heavy texture instead of a light gel. What caused this texture issue, and how can I adjust the formulation to achieve a lighter gel texture?

Answer

Understanding Your "Double Hyaluronic (Hyaluron) Gel" Texture

The reason your homemade "Double Hyaluronic (Hyaluron) Gel" has an oily or heavy texture instead of a light gel is primarily due to the high total concentration of the active ingredients you added.

Based on the feedback you received:

  • High Total Active Concentration: Your formula contains approximately 48% active ingredients. When the total concentration of added ingredients is this high, it significantly reduces the proportion of the gel base (like a Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base or Hyaluronic Acid Elastomer), changing the overall texture from a light gel to something much heavier, potentially feeling sticky or oily.
  • Specific Ingredient Properties: Certain ingredients in your formula also contribute to this texture:
    • Azelaic Acid (Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate): This ingredient can impart a slightly oily feel to the product.
    • Sodium PCA: This ingredient can leave a slight film or coating sensation on the skin.

The combined effect of these ingredients at high levels results in the texture you experienced, which is different from a typical light gel.

Recommendation:

As suggested, keeping the total concentration of added ingredients below 25% of the base is generally recommended if you are aiming for a lighter gel texture. Also, remember that Azelaic Acid is typically not recommended for daytime use.