Thick Cream Soap Formulation with AminoWash: Troubleshooting Light Cream Maker Incompatibility
Question
I want to create a thick cream soap for facial cleansing using AminoWash (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate). I previously attempted to use Light Cream Maker at 5-10%, but the formula became abnormally hard and unusable, which I understand is due to Light Cream Maker's incompatibility with electrolytes in AminoWash.
Could you provide a stable formulation and detailed mixing method for a thick cream soap using AminoWash? What alternative emulsifier is suitable, and what are the recommended usage percentages for the key ingredients to achieve the desired thick, creamy texture?
Answer
Thick Cream Soap Formulation
This formula is designed to provide a rich, creamy texture for a wash-off facial cleanser.
- Purified Water: 61%
- Glycerin: 5%
- AminoWash (Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate): 10%
- Butter Cream Maker: 5%
- Cetearyl Alcohol: 7%
- Fractionated Coconut Oil: 5%
- Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): 5%
- Vitamin E Acetate: 1%
- Mild Preserved Eco: 1%
Mixing Method:
- Oil Phase: Combine Butter Cream Maker, Cetearyl Alcohol, Fractionated Coconut Oil, Shea Butter (Ultra Soft), and Vitamin E Acetate. Heat this mixture to 70-80°C until all solid components are melted and combined.
- Water Phase: Combine Purified Water, Glycerin, AminoWash, and Mild Preserved Eco. Heat this water phase to a temperature similar to the oil phase (70-80°C).
- Emulsification: While continuously blending the water phase, gradually add the heated oil phase.
- Continue blending until the mixture is fully emulsified and has cooled down. The cream will thicken further as it cools and sets over several hours (Butter Cream Maker takes about 12 hours to fully set).
Ingredient Roles:
- AminoWash: The primary gentle surfactant for cleansing.
- Butter Cream Maker: An emulsifier that helps create the cream structure and is compatible with electrolytes present in AminoWash.
- Cetearyl Alcohol: A fatty alcohol that acts as a thickener and contributes to the heavy, creamy texture. It also provides emolliency.
- Fractionated Coconut Oil & Shea Butter (Ultra Soft): Emollients that add richness and moisturizing properties to the cream, helping to prevent dryness after washing.
- Glycerin: A humectant that draws moisture to the skin.
- Vitamin E Acetate: An antioxidant that can benefit the skin.
- Mild Preserved Eco: A preservative to protect the formula from microbial growth.
Regarding your previous attempt with Light Cream Maker, as discussed, Light Cream Maker is generally not suitable for formulas containing significant amounts of electrolytes, such as those with AminoWash. Using it in such formulas, especially at high concentrations, can lead to instability and undesirable textures like excessive hardness that cannot be easily corrected. Butter Cream Maker is a better choice for formulas containing electrolytes.
You can adjust the proportions of Butter Cream Maker and Cetearyl Alcohol slightly to fine-tune the thickness, but be mindful of the recommended usage rates for each ingredient. Increasing these components will generally result in a thicker cream.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Light Cream Maker™
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Fractionated Coconut Oil
Coco Wash™ (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate)
Shea Butter (Ultra Soft)
emulPearl™ (Pearlizer, Dispersed Liquid)
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)