Thickening a Cream Formula using SiliSolve Plus™

Asked by: khunchinz On: July 13, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am formulating a cream using SiliSolve Plus™ at 3% to emulsify an oil/silicone phase (total 30%) with a water phase. The resulting formula is too liquid.

  1. Can Pentaerythrityl Distearate be used to thicken the formula to a rich cream texture?
  2. How should Pentaerythrityl Distearate be incorporated into the formula, especially considering there are heat-sensitive ingredients in the oil/silicone phase?

Answer

Thickening a SiliSolve Plus™ Emulsion

Regarding your questions about thickening a formula using SiliSolve Plus™ (3%) and incorporating Pentaerythrityl Distearate:

  1. Using Pentaerythrityl Distearate: Yes, Pentaerythrityl Distearate can be used to increase the viscosity and improve the texture of your cream formula. It functions as a texturizer and thickener in the oil phase.

  2. Incorporating Pentaerythrityl Distearate with Heat-Sensitive Ingredients: Pentaerythrityl Distearate is a solid that needs to be melted into the oil phase, typically around 60°C, before emulsification. Since your formula uses SiliSolve Plus™ to emulsify an oil/silicone phase (total 30%) with a water phase, and contains heat-sensitive ingredients (like some silicones), the standard procedure would involve heating both the oil/silicone phase (containing melted Pentaerythrityl Distearate) and the water phase to a suitable temperature for emulsification (often around 70-80°C, depending on the specific ingredients and SiliSolve Plus™ requirements). The water phase is then gradually added to the oil/silicone phase while blending. Heat-sensitive ingredients should be added after the emulsion has formed and cooled down significantly (e.g., below 40°C) to avoid degradation.

    Therefore, using Pentaerythrityl Distearate will require a hot process for the emulsification step, meaning you cannot entirely avoid heat if you choose this thickener.

If you need to thicken the formula while completely avoiding heat, consider these alternatives suggested by the staff:

  • Adjust the water ratio: Increasing the water content might help, although this may not always provide significant thickening.
  • Use Oil-Fix™ W: This ingredient is a silica-based thickener designed for water-in-oil and water-in-silicone formulas. It can be dispersed into the oil/silicone phase and helps increase viscosity and stability without necessarily requiring high heat for its incorporation, making it suitable for formulas with heat-sensitive components.

In summary, while Pentaerythrityl Distearate is an effective thickener, it necessitates a hot process. If a cold process is required due to heat-sensitive ingredients, Oil-Fix™ W is a more suitable alternative for thickening your SiliSolve Plus™ emulsion.