Thickening a Whitening & Moisturizing Formula to Serum/Gel Texture

Asked by: poo3055 On: July 27, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a whitening and moisturizing formulation with the following ingredients:

  • Ethyl Ascorbic acid
  • Oxyresveratrol
  • Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids
  • Double Hyaluron Liquid
  • Ethoxydiglycol
  • EDTA
  • Phenoxyethanol
  • Orange Oil

I want to achieve a thicker texture, like a serum or gel. Will adding 1% Glycerin thicken the formula to a serum or gel consistency?

Answer

Okay, I can help review your proposed formulation and address your questions about texture.

Your formulation includes several good ingredients for a whitening and moisturizing product, suitable for normal skin exposed to the sun:

  • Actives: Ethyl Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C derivative) and Oxyresveratrol (from มะหาด) are excellent choices for whitening and antioxidant benefits.
  • Moisturizers/Humectants: Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids and Double Hyaluron Liquid help hydrate the skin.
  • Solvent/Carrier: Ethoxydiglycol can help dissolve actives and improve penetration.
  • Preservation/Stability: EDTA and Phenoxyethanol are standard ingredients for stability and preservation.
  • Fragrance: Orange Oil adds scent.

The mixing method you described seems reasonable for combining these ingredients.

Regarding your question about adding 1% Glycerin to make the texture thicker:

  • Glycerin is primarily a humectant (draws moisture to the skin).
  • While it can contribute slightly to the viscosity of a formula, 1% is a relatively low concentration and is unlikely to significantly thicken the texture into a serum or gel consistency. It will mostly add moisturizing properties.
  • To achieve a noticeable increase in viscosity or a gel texture, you would typically need to add a dedicated gelling agent or thickener.

To create a serum or gel texture using these or similar ingredients, you would need to incorporate a gelling agent into your formula. Common gelling agents for water-based systems include:

  • Carbomer
  • Xanthan Gum
  • Hydroxyethylcellulose
  • Sclerotium Gum

The amount of gelling agent needed depends on the specific type used and the desired thickness (serum vs. gel). You would typically disperse the gelling agent in the water phase and neutralize it (if needed, like Carbomer) to form the gel structure before adding other ingredients.

In summary, your proposed list of ingredients is suitable for a whitening and moisturizing product. Adding 1% Glycerin will primarily enhance hydration, not significantly thicken the formula. To achieve serum or gel textures, you will need to use a specific gelling agent.