Formulation Analysis: Toner/Essence

Thank you for sharing your formulation. This formula includes several interesting ingredients aimed at creating a toner or essence with a slightly viscous texture, focusing on gentle exfoliation, hydration, and skin conditioning.

Formulation Feedback

Here are some comments and recommendations regarding your formula:

1. pH Level:

   • Your formula includes Ampho-Glycolic™ (Non-Stinging Glycolic Acid Solution), which has a pH range of 1.5-2.5, and Witch Hazel Plus Allantoin, with a pH range of 3.8-4.5
   • Combining these ingredients will result in a formula with an acidic pH, which aligns with your target pH of 3.5.
   • However, it is essential to measure the pH of the final mixture to ensure it reaches your desired value of 3.5. If the pH is slightly higher or lower than your target, you can use appropriate pH adjusters like Lactic Acid or Citric Acid for lowering pH, or Triethanolamine (TEA) for raising pH (should be used in minimal amounts).

2. Viscosity:

   • The 0.10% of Xanthan Gum (clear gel type, smooth texture) you included will help provide the slight viscosity you desire, resulting in a light, clear gel texture.
   • WaterLube™ Slip also contributes to the texture by providing slip and reducing tackiness, making the product easier to apply.

3. Preservation:

   • Witch Hazel Plus Allantoin contains Benzoic Acid as a preservative.
   • HydroAlgae™ contains 1% Phenoxyethanol as a preservative.
   • Xanthan Gum and Hyaluronic Acid are natural-derived ingredients that require preservation to prevent microbial growth.
   • Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) is a broad-spectrum preservative effective in the pH range of 2.0-6.0, which is suitable for your target pH of 3.5.
   • While some ingredients already contain preservatives, the amount carried over may not be sufficient to protect the entire formula, especially a complex, water-based one with multiple ingredients.
   • Including Phenoxyethanol SA at 0.50% in this formula is appropriate and recommended. It ensures that the formula is effectively protected against microbial contamination throughout its shelf life, particularly as ingredients like Xanthan Gum and Hyaluronic Acid require additional preservation. Omitting Phenoxyethanol SA could lead to formula instability and a higher risk of contamination.

4. Other Ingredients:

   • Ampho-Glycolic™ at 7% provides Glycolic Acid in a less irritating form, aiding in skin exfoliation and renewal.
   • Palmaria Palmata Extract, HydroAlgae™, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, and Hyaluronic Acid (Small Molecule) are a group of beneficial ingredients that contribute to hydration, soothing, and potentially other skin benefits depending on the specific properties of each material.
   • Laurocapram (Water Soluble) acts as a penetration enhancer, helping water-soluble active ingredients absorb better into the skin.
   • Odor-Kill™ helps to reduce unwanted odors in the formula.

Conclusion

Overall, the formula looks promising and the ingredients appear to work well together to achieve the properties you are aiming for (a slightly viscous toner/essence).

• pH: The final pH will be acidic and close to your target of 3.5, but measurement and adjustment after mixing are necessary.
• Viscosity: Xanthan Gum and WaterLube™ Slip will help achieve the desired viscosity and texture.
• Preservation: It is recommended to keep Phenoxyethanol SA at 0.50% to ensure adequate and effective microbial protection for the formula.

This formula appears to have good potential as a Toner/Essence providing gentle exfoliation, hydration, and skin conditioning.