Toner Formula for Oil Control and Preventing Clogged Pores - Concentration and Irritation

Question

I am developing a Toner Formula for Oil Control and Preventing Clogged Pores. My formula includes:

Salicylic Acid 10%
Glycolic Acid 4%
Pure MSM 5%

I understand the pH will be low with these ingredients and plan to use TEA to adjust it. I have used this formula for one week and haven't experienced any irritation.

Is the low pH a concern, and is using TEA sufficient to adjust it?
Would adding Glycol or a Penetration Enhancer be beneficial for this formula?
Given the high concentrations (Salicylic Acid 10%, Glycolic Acid 4%) and the combination of AHA and BHA, is this formula suitable for gentle exfoliation, especially since I haven't felt irritation after one week? I am aiming for gentle exfoliation.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Subject: Regarding your Toner Formula for Oil Control and Preventing Clogged Pores

Thank you for sharing your toner formula and questions. Based on your ingredients and the staff's previous responses, here's a review:

pH Level: You are correct that the pH is likely low with these ingredients. Adding TEA helps to raise it. While a low pH is necessary for the efficacy of Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid, extremely low pH can cause irritation. The staff's primary concern, however, is the combination and concentration of these strong exfoliants, which can cause significant irritation regardless of the pH level (within the effective range). Feeling no irritation after just one week doesn't guarantee the formula is suitable for long-term, gentle use.
Glycol or Penetration Enhancer: While glycols can help with ingredient solubility and penetration enhancers can improve delivery, the staff's main advice focuses on reducing the irritation potential of your formula. Adding ingredients that increase the penetration of high concentrations of AHA and BHA might counteract the goal of gentle exfoliation and could increase the risk of irritation. Based on the staff's guidance, focusing on a less irritating combination of active ingredients is more important than enhancing penetration of a potentially harsh mix.
Gentle Exfoliation with 4% AHA + 5% Pure MSM: As the staff previously advised, combining 10% Salicylic Acid (BHA) and 4% Glycolic Acid (AHA) in the same formula is generally not recommended, especially for gentle exfoliation. Both are potent exfoliants, and using them together at these concentrations significantly increases the risk of irritation, redness, and sensitivity. While Pure MSM has soothing properties, it may not be enough to counteract the combined effect of high-concentration AHA and BHA. For gentle exfoliation, it is strongly recommended to follow the staff's advice and choose either Salicylic Acid or Glycolic Acid, not both, and potentially start with lower concentrations if you are new to these ingredients. Gentle, consistent exfoliation over time is more beneficial than using a harsh formula that could damage the skin barrier and require you to stop using it.

In summary, the staff's advice is sound. The combination of 10% Salicylic Acid and 4% Glycolic Acid is the main concern for irritation, even if you don't feel immediate effects. For gentle and effective exfoliation, please consider revising the formula to use only one type of chemical exfoliant (AHA or BHA) at appropriate concentrations, as recommended by the staff. Consistent use of a gentle formula will yield better long-term results.