Toner Formulation Advice: Addressing Irritation and Texture for Brightening & Lifting

Question

Regarding a previously inquired formula for a morning/evening toner aimed at skin brightening:

First Formula (Whitening Toner):

Ingredients:

Vitamin B3 4%
n-acetyl glucosamine 4%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
Alpha Arbutin 2%
Distilled water (remainder)

A family member experienced irritation, rash, and acne breakouts when using this formula, suspected to be from Alpha Arbutin. Can soothing ingredients like Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5) extralite, Calendula Extract, or Creatine 100 be added to help reduce irritation, or is it necessary to remove Alpha Arbutin entirely if the irritation is due to it?

Second Formula (Brightening, Moisturizing, Lifting Toner):

This formula is intended for morning/evening use on skin with an oily T-zone that has difficulty holding makeup. The goals are skin brightening, non-sticky moisture, and face lifting.

Ingredients:

Vitamin B3 4%
n-acetyl glucosamine 4%
DMAE 3%
Wrinkle-Fill 2%
Creatine 100 1% (added to help reduce potential irritation from DMAE)
Laurocapram 2%
Distilled water (remainder)

Questions about the second formula:

Which soothing ingredient is better to use: Creatine 100 or Calendula Extract?
Why is Creatine 100 used in products like La Mer (e.g., The Moisturizing Soft Cream)? What specific benefits does it provide in such products?
Will this second formula feel sticky if used in the morning?
Is using DMAE at 3% acceptable, considering potential irritation, and will the addition of Creatine 100 at 1% effectively help reduce irritation from DMAE?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Formulation Advice for Toners

Here is some advice regarding your two toner formulations:

First Formulation (Whitening Toner)

Your first formula aims for whitening and includes Vitamin B3, n-acetyl glucosamine, Mild Preserved Eco, Alpha Arbutin, and distilled water.

It is possible that Alpha Arbutin is causing the irritation (rash/acne) experienced by your family member. While Alpha Arbutin is generally considered safe and effective for brightening, individual skin sensitivity varies.

Adding soothing ingredients can potentially help reduce irritation. Based on the ingredients you are considering:

Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): Known for its moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. It can help reduce redness, itching, and accelerate skin tissue repair, making it suitable for irritated skin.
Calendula Extract: Has anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and skin-strengthening properties. It helps reduce inflammation, redness, and irritation, making it suitable for sensitive or irritated skin.
Creatine 100: Helps promote collagen production, protect skin cells, increase moisture, and reduce skin irritation.

All three ingredients (Panthenol, Calendula Extract, and Creatine 100) have properties that can help soothe the skin and reduce irritation. You could try adding one or a combination of these to the formula. However, if the irritation is a true allergic reaction to Alpha Arbutin, adding soothing agents might not be sufficient, and it might be necessary to remove Alpha Arbutin from the formula entirely.

Second Formulation (Brightening, Moisturizing, Lifting Toner)

Your second formula targets brightening, non-sticky moisture, and lifting for oily T-zone skin, including Vitamin B3, n-acetyl glucosamine, DMAE, Wrinkle-Fill, Creatine 100, Laurocapram, and distilled water.

Regarding your questions about this formula:

Soothing Ingredient (Creatine 100 vs. Calendula Extract): Both Creatine 100 and Calendula Extract can help reduce irritation. Creatine 100 is included in your proposed formula at 1% to help reduce irritation from DMAE, which is a suitable use based on its properties. Calendula Extract also has strong anti-inflammatory benefits. The choice between them or using both depends on desired overall benefits and formulation compatibility. Creatine 100 is known for supporting skin structure and energy metabolism in addition to soothing, while Calendula Extract is primarily focused on anti-inflammatory and healing properties.
Creatine 100 in La Mer: Creatine 100 is used in products like La Mer's The Moisturizing Soft Cream for its benefits in promoting collagen, elastin, and keratin production, protecting skin cells, increasing moisture, and reducing irritation. It supports overall skin health and function.
Stickiness: The stickiness of the formula will depend on the total concentration of active ingredients and the base. While Vitamin B3, n-acetyl glucosamine, DMAE, Wrinkle-Fill, Creatine 100, and Laurocapram are water-soluble, their combined percentage (4% + 4% + 3% + 2% + 1% + 2% = 16%) is relatively high for a toner, which could potentially lead to a slightly sticky feel, especially with the addition of Laurocapram which is a penetration enhancer. You might need to adjust concentrations or consider adding a light, non-sticky humectant or slip agent if stickiness is an issue.
DMAE at 3%: DMAE at 3% is within the recommended usage rate (1-10%, with 3% recommended). However, the description notes that using above 5% may irritate the skin, and it is not suitable for thin, sensitive skin. While 3% is generally considered a moderate level, individual sensitivity to DMAE varies. Including Creatine 100 at 1% is a good approach to help mitigate potential irritation from DMAE, as Creatine 100 is known to reduce skin irritation.

It's always recommended to perform a patch test with any new formulation, especially for individuals with sensitive skin or a history of reactions.