Toner Formulation: Compatibility and pH Issues with Ampho-Glycolic and DMAE

Question

I would like a toner that has the effect of tightening pores, balancing skin, brightening skin, gently exfoliating, reducing acne, while still maintaining skin moisture.

Here is the proposed formulation:

Witch Hazel Plus Allantoin 59%
Mild Preserved Eco 1%
Ampho-Glycolic 2.5%
CosmoWhite 1.5%
Cucumber Extract 5%
VersaMoist 2% (Penetration Enhancer)
Rice Vitamin 2%
Calcium Pantothenate 3%
Yerba Santa Glycoprotein 5%
Azelaic Acid 10%
Tea Tree Oil (Water Soluble) 1%
Natto Gum 5%
DMAE 3%

Mixing Procedure: Mix 1 + 2 until clear. Add 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. Add 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13.

I would like to know if the ingredients are compatible. Will Ampho-Glycolic and DMAE affect the pH of the formula?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Toner Formulation Review

Thank you for sharing your toner formulation. You have included several excellent ingredients to address pore tightening, skin balancing, brightening, gentle exfoliation, acne reduction, and hydration.

Based on the properties of the ingredients, the primary concern in this formulation is the potential pH incompatibility between Ampho-Glycolic and DMAE (SkinTight MD) Liquid.

Ampho-Glycolic (ID 7001) is a form of Glycolic Acid with a low pH range (1.5-2.5). Glycolic Acid is most effective for exfoliation at acidic pH levels, typically below 4.0.
DMAE (SkinTight MD) Liquid (ID 637) is a basic ingredient. Combining a highly acidic ingredient like Ampho-Glycolic with a basic ingredient like DMAE will cause a significant pH shift due to neutralization.

This pH shift will likely raise the final pH of your toner above the optimal range for Ampho-Glycolic's exfoliating action, potentially reducing or eliminating this intended benefit. Additionally, several other ingredients in your formula have specific pH requirements for optimal stability and efficacy (e.g., Cucumber Extract, Rice Vitamin, Natto Gum, Yerba Santa Glycoprotein, Tea Tree Oil, Witch Hazel Plus Allantoin, Azelaic Acid).

Achieving a single pH that is optimal for all these ingredients simultaneously will be challenging.

Recommendations:

Consider Separating Products: To maximize the effectiveness of both Ampho-Glycolic (for exfoliation) and DMAE (for tightening), it is generally recommended to use them in separate products with optimized pH levels for each ingredient.
Monitor and Adjust pH: If you proceed with this combination, you must carefully measure the final pH and adjust it. However, be aware that finding a stable and effective pH for all ingredients simultaneously may be difficult.
Adjust Mixing Order: Ensure that heat-sensitive ingredients like Ampho-Glycolic, Cucumber Extract, Yerba Santa Glycoprotein, Azelaic Acid, Tea Tree Oil, DMAE, and Mild Preserved Eco are added in the final step after the mixture has cooled below 40°C.

While the individual ingredients are beneficial, their combination in a single toner formulation presents a significant pH challenge that could impact the formula's overall stability and efficacy, particularly the exfoliating function of Ampho-Glycolic.