Toner Formulation for Acne and Oil Control: Ingredient Suitability and Mixing

Question

I am developing a toner formulation aimed at reducing inflammatory acne and clogged pores, and controlling facial oiliness. I want a toner that is non-oily, non-sticky, light, comfortable on the skin, evaporates quickly, and does not pill, while still being effective for the stated goals.

My intended active ingredients are:

Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA, Timed-Release) 3.3% (equivalent to BHA 1%)
Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) 1%
Phenonip® P4 1%
Ethyl Alcohol 99.5% 5%
The remaining part is Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free) Plus Allantoin, used as the water base.

Regarding this formulation and the staff's suggestion to add Zinc PCA (1%) and L-Carnitine (3%) for enhanced oil control:

Are the current active ingredients sufficient to meet the goals? I've heard that adding too many active ingredients can lead to stickiness.
I want to add FastRelief™ 1% to inhibit irritation. FastRelief™ is oil-soluble. Can I use Flora Solve™ Clear 3% to disperse the oil in the water base?
If Flora Solve™ Clear is not suitable, what should I use to disperse the oil and water? If it is suitable, please provide the correct mixing procedure.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Toner Formulation for Oily, Acne-Prone Skin

Thank you for your inquiry regarding your toner formulation for oily, acne-prone skin. Based on your proposed ingredients and questions, here is the information:

Your proposed formula, including Encapsulated Salicylic Acid, Licorice Extract, Phenonip® P4, Ethyl Alcohol, and Witch Hazel/Allantoin base, can indeed help reduce clogged pores and skin oiliness.

Regarding your questions:

Sufficiency of Active Ingredients: The active ingredients you've chosen are suitable for targeting clogged pores and oiliness. The staff suggests considering the addition of Zinc PCA (1%) and L-Carnitine (3%) to further enhance the oil-reducing efficacy of the formula.

If you find the formula feels sticky, the staff recommends considering replacing Encapsulated Salicylic Acid with Salicylic Acid EZ. This alternative is lighter in feel but does not offer the timed-release or skin-adhering properties of the encapsulated version.
Adding FastRelief™ for Irritation: The staff clarifies that FastRelief™ does not actually inhibit or reduce irritation. Its function is to reduce the feeling of irritation, such as tingling sensations that might occur with some ingredients. If your goal is to truly reduce irritation or condition the skin, the staff recommends using other ingredients specifically designed for irritation reduction or skin conditioning, which may also be more cost-effective.
Using Flora Solve™ Clear as a Dispersant: Yes, you can use Flora Solve™ Clear (3%) to disperse FastRelief™ if you choose to include it in your formula. The correct mixing steps are to first mix the FastRelief™ thoroughly with the Flora Solve™ Clear, and then add this mixture into the water base of your formula.