Toner Formulation for Combination/Dry Skin with Acne and Aging Concerns

Asked by: benis_la_lune On: August 15, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have combination/dry skin with concerns about clogged pores, acne, dullness, dryness, and signs of aging. I am interested in using ingredients like Azelaic Acid, Salicylic Acid (BHA), Vitamin B3, Zinc PCA, Licorice Extract, Rice Vitamin, and Centella Asiatica.

1. Can I combine Witch Hazel and Azelaic Acid in a toner?
2. Please provide a toner formulation that addresses these concerns and incorporates some of these ingredients.
3. What are the considerations for pH and mixing?
4. Why is BHA not included in the toner formula?

Answer

Toner Formulation for Combination/Dry Skin with Acne and Aging Concerns

This formulation is designed to address your concerns about clogged pores, acne, dullness, dryness, and signs of aging, using the ingredients you are interested in.

Yes, Witch Hazel and Azelaic Acid can be used together in a toner formulation, provided the final pH is within a suitable range for both ingredients and the skin.

Here's a breakdown of the key ingredients and their benefits in this toner:

  • Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free): Acts as a base for the toner and helps to tighten pores.
  • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): Helps reduce clogged pores, acne, oiliness, and also brightens the skin and reduces red/dark marks from acne. We recommend starting at 5%.
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5): Known for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties. It helps to soothe the skin and reduce potential irritation from active ingredients like Azelaic Acid.
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide) + GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): This combination is excellent for improving skin tone, reducing dark spots, strengthening the skin barrier, controlling oiliness, and boosting hydration by stimulating hyaluronic acid production. Vitamin B3 also helps improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
  • Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%): As you like, Centella Asiatica helps stimulate collagen production, which is beneficial for reducing wrinkles and firming the skin. It also has anti-inflammatory properties and helps with wound healing and reducing acne scars and redness.

Sample Toner Formula

Here is a sample formula. You can adjust the percentages slightly based on your skin's needs and tolerance, but it's a good starting point.

  • Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free): 64%
  • Water (Distilled/Deionized): 10%
  • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™): 5%
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
  • GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine): 3%
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5, DL-Panthenol, Powder): 2%
  • Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%): 1%
  • Glycerin (or Propanediol): 5%
  • Preservative (e.g., Mild Preserved Eco): 1%
  • pH Adjuster (e.g., Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution): q.s. to pH 4.5-6.5

Total: 100%

pH Considerations and Mixing Instructions

Maintaining the correct pH is crucial for the stability and effectiveness of the ingredients, as well as for skin comfort. The target pH for this toner is between 4.5 and 6.5.

Mixing Steps:

  1. Combine Witch Hazel (64%) and most of the Water (9%).
  2. Add Safe-B3™ (5%), GlucoBright™ (3%), and Panthenol (2%) to the Witch Hazel/Water mixture. Stir until fully dissolved. Gentle warming (below 40°C) can help dissolve B3 and NAG, but cool down before proceeding.
  3. In a separate small container, dissolve Centella Asiatica Extract (1%) in the remaining Water (1%). Stir until dissolved.
  4. Once the main mixture from step 2 is cooled below 40°C, add the dissolved Centella Asiatica solution from step 3.
  5. Add Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) (5%) and Glycerin (5%). Mix well.
  6. Add the preservative (1%) and mix thoroughly.
  7. Check the pH of the mixture using a pH meter or pH strips.
  8. Slowly add drops of a pH adjuster solution (e.g., 10% Citric Acid solution to lower pH, or 10% Sodium Hydroxide solution to raise pH) while stirring, until the pH is in the range of 4.5-6.5.
  9. Mix one final time to ensure everything is evenly distributed.

Regarding BHA (Salicylic Acid)

You mentioned being interested in BHA (Salicylic Acid) for clogged pores. While Salicylic Acid is very effective for this purpose, the standard powder form is not water-soluble and requires specific solvents, making it challenging for a simple water-based toner formulation for beginners. There are water-soluble forms like Salicylic Acid EZ™, but these are generally recommended for gel or cream formulas, not liquid toners, as they can precipitate in very liquid bases, especially at low temperatures. Since this formula already includes Azelaic Acid, which also helps with clogged pores and acne, we have focused on incorporating your other desired ingredients into this toner base. If clogged pores are a major concern, you might consider a separate product containing BHA in a suitable format (like a gel or serum).

Remember to perform a patch test before applying the toner to your entire face. Start using the toner gradually (e.g., a few times a week) to see how your skin responds, especially if you are new to active ingredients like Azelaic Acid.