Toner Formulation for Exfoliation and Clogged Pores: Compatibility and Additions

Asked by: yongyee0 On: October 30, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am creating a toner with the following objectives:

  1. Exfoliate skin
  2. Dissolve clogged pores

The formula I plan to use is:

  1. Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free) 89%
  2. Salicylic Acid EZ™ (Water-Soluble) 10%
  3. Papaya Enzyme (Papain) 1%

Are the ingredients in this formula compatible? Should I add anything else? Please provide guidance.

Answer

Hello! Regarding the toner formula you've inquired about, it includes interesting ingredients for your objectives of exfoliation and dissolving clogged pores.

Your chosen ingredients are:

  1. Witch Hazel (Distilled - Alcohol Free): Has astringent properties, helps tighten pores, and has mild anti-inflammatory effects.
  2. Salicylic Acid EZ™ (Water-Soluble): An effective BHA for exfoliating skin within pores, helping to dissolve clogged pores and reduce inflammation.
  3. Papaya Enzyme (Papain): An enzyme that helps gently exfoliate dead skin cells.

Ingredient Compatibility:

  • Witch Hazel and Salicylic Acid are generally compatible in a water-based toner.
  • A crucial consideration is pH: Salicylic Acid requires a relatively low pH (around 3-4) to be effective in exfoliating and penetrating pores. Papain enzyme, however, works best in a higher pH range (around 6-7). If the formula's pH is too low to support Salicylic Acid's efficacy, it may significantly reduce or inactivate the Papain enzyme. Combining these two might not yield the full benefit of the enzyme.

Salicylic Acid Concentration:

  • You are using Salicylic Acid at a concentration of 10%, which is considered very high for a leave-on toner. Typically, Salicylic Acid in toners or serums for regular use is around 0.5% to 2%.
  • A 10% concentration is usually found in chemical peels or wash-off treatments used occasionally.
  • Using Salicylic Acid at 10% in a toner is highly likely to cause severe irritation, redness, dryness, peeling, and increased sun sensitivity with regular use.

Should anything be added?

  • Preservative: It is absolutely essential to add a preservative to this formula as it contains a large amount of water, which is prone to microbial growth (bacteria, yeast, mold). Not including a preservative will make the product unsafe to use and spoil quickly.
  • Humectants: Such as Glycerin, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, to help hydrate the skin and counteract potential dryness from Witch Hazel and Salicylic Acid.
  • Soothing Agents: Such as Allantoin, Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Centella Asiatica Extract, to help reduce potential irritation and soothe the skin from the high concentration of Salicylic Acid (if you decide to use a lower concentration).

Further Guidance:

  1. Consider reducing Salicylic Acid concentration: It is strongly recommended to reduce the Salicylic Acid concentration to a range safe for leave-on toner use, such as 0.5% - 2%, to minimize the risk of severe irritation.
  2. Papain and pH: If you want to benefit from the Papain enzyme, you might need to adjust the formula or use other ingredients that work well at low pH, or perhaps use enzyme products in a separate step.
  3. Preservative is necessary: Choose a preservative suitable for your formula and pH range.
  4. Check the final pH: After mixing all ingredients, you should measure the pH of the product to ensure it is suitable for skin application (generally toners are around pH 4-6) and compatible with the ingredients used (even if Papain's activity is reduced at low pH, Salicylic Acid needs low pH).
  5. Patch Test: Always test the product on a small area of skin before applying it all over your face to check for irritation.

In summary, the main ingredients are compatible in terms of mixing, but there's a pH issue that might affect Papain's efficacy, and most importantly, the 10% Salicylic Acid concentration is too high for a leave-on toner. You should also add a preservative and consider adding hydrating/soothing ingredients.

Hope this advice is helpful! If you have any more questions, feel free to ask.