Toner Formulation: Ingredients, Proportions, and pH Balancing

Subject: Re: Just Toner จำเป็นหรือไม่ (Toner Necessity)

Hello! Let's break down your questions about formulating a toner based on your list and the previous discussion.

You are right that the traditional roles of a toner were to provide a final cleanse, balance pH after alkaline soaps, and prepare the skin for subsequent steps. However, as the staff explained, modern gentle facial washes often leave the skin's pH balanced, reducing the necessity of the pH-balancing step for everyone. The "cleaning" aspect in modern toners is usually minimal, as thorough cleansing is done beforehand.

Regarding your specific questions:

1. Cleaning Agent: You asked about using PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (Makeup wash) or PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (Coco Wash) for cleaning in a toner. As the staff mentioned, these are primarily makeup removers designed to emulsify oils and dirt before washing. They are not typically used in a toner applied after washing. A modern gentle face wash should remove most impurities. If you still want a very mild final sweep, a low percentage of a gentle surfactant like Polysorbate 20 (which was in your list) could potentially help remove trace residues, but it's not its primary function in this context, and it's not strictly necessary if your face wash is effective.
2. pH Balancing: Yes, balancing pH means bringing the skin's pH back to its slightly acidic natural state, which is typically around pH 5-6. This state is optimal for the skin barrier function and enzyme activity. Witch Hazel Extract, which you included, is acidic and helps with this. However, the final pH of your toner formulation should be checked and adjusted using a pH meter or strips. You would use a mild acid (like Citric Acid or Lactic Acid solution) to lower the pH or a mild base (like Sodium Hydroxide or Triethanolamine solution) to raise it, if needed, to reach the target pH of 5-6.

Now, let's look at your remaining ingredient list for formulation:

• water: The base of your toner.
• Polysorbate 20: A mild non-ionic surfactant and solubilizer. Can help disperse other ingredients or provide minimal cleansing. Optional if you don't need solubilizing or extra cleansing.
• PEG/PPG-14/4 dimenthicone: A silicone polymer, likely included for skin feel (slip, conditioning). It doesn't contribute to cleaning or pH balancing. You can omit this if you want a simpler formula or if it's unavailable.
• Propylene Glycol: A humectant (draws moisture into the skin) and solvent. Helps hydrate and can improve ingredient penetration. Beneficial but not strictly essential for cleaning/balancing.
• dipotassium EDTA (or Disodium EDTA): A chelating agent. Helps stabilize the formula by binding metal ions, which can affect product clarity, stability, and preservative effectiveness. Highly recommended for water-based products.
• Witch Hazel Extract: The key ingredient for pH balancing and mild astringent properties.

Crucial Missing Ingredient: Preservative

Your list is missing a preservative. Any water-based product must contain a broad-spectrum preservative to prevent bacterial and fungal growth. Using a product without a preservative can be harmful. You need to add a suitable cosmetic preservative from the shop. Common options include Phenoxyethanol, Germaben II, etc.

Sample Minimal Toner Formula (Cleaning & Balancing)

Here is a suggested starting point for a simple toner focused on balancing pH, based on your list, with essential additions:

• Purified Water: Up to 100% (adjust based on other ingredients) - e.g., 78.4%
• Witch Hazel Extract: 10%
• Propylene Glycol: 5%
• Polysorbate 20: 0.5% (Optional - omit if not needed)
• Disodium EDTA (or Dipotassium EDTA): 0.1%
• Preservative (e.g., Phenoxyethanol): 1% (Follow supplier's recommended usage rate)
• pH Adjuster (e.g., Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution): As needed to reach pH 5-6

Mixing Instructions:

1. In a clean container, combine Purified Water, Propylene Glycol, and Disodium EDTA. Stir until the EDTA is fully dissolved.
2. Add Polysorbate 20 (if using) and Witch Hazel Extract. Stir well to combine.
3. Add the chosen Preservative and stir thoroughly.
4. Measure the pH of the mixture using a pH meter or pH strips.
5. If the pH is outside the 5-6 range, add a very small amount of pH adjuster (acid to lower, base to raise), stir, and re-measure the pH. Repeat until the desired pH (5-6) is reached.
6. Once the pH is stable, the toner is ready. You can filter it if desired before bottling in a clean container.

Regarding Witch Hazel and Pores:

You asked why Witch Hazel, which can tighten pores, is used in toners if the goal is to prepare skin for absorption. As the staff explained, while Witch Hazel does have astringent (pore-tightening) properties, the idea that you need to "open" pores for serums to absorb is less critical with modern cosmetic formulations. Ingredients and bases are now designed to penetrate effectively regardless of minor pore size variations. So, while Witch Hazel might slightly tighten pores, it doesn't significantly hinder the absorption of well-formulated serums and creams, and its pH-balancing benefit is considered more important in the context of a toner.

Substitutions:

• PEG/PPG-14/4 dimenthicone: Omit if unavailable or not desired. No direct substitute is needed for the core function.
• Preservative: Choose any suitable broad-spectrum preservative available from the shop and follow its recommended usage rate.
• Dipotassium EDTA: Disodium EDTA is a common alternative and works similarly. The shop link you provided was for Disodium EDTA (ID 184).

Hope this helps you create your toner!