Toner Formulation Review: Oily Skin + BHA

Here is a review of the proposed toner formulation for oily skin with BHA:

Ingredients and their functions:

• Complex Salicylic Acid / Encapsulated Salicylic Acid (BHA) (5%): Exfoliation, oil control, acne treatment.
• Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%) (1%): Soothing, anti-inflammatory.
• Zinc PCA (1%): Sebum regulation, antibacterial.
• L-Carnitine (3%): Sebum regulation.
• Ethoxydiglycol (2%): Solvent, penetration enhancer.
• Phenoxyethanol (0.5%): Preservative.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) (4%): Barrier support, anti-inflammatory, pore appearance, oil control, brightening.
• Glycerin (3.5%): Humectant, hydration.
• DI Water (80%): Base solvent.

Review and Suggestions:

This formula contains a good combination of ingredients targeting oily skin, exfoliation, and soothing. The inclusion of BHA, Zinc PCA, L-Carnitine, and Niacinamide directly addresses oil control and related issues. Licorice Extract and Niacinamide provide soothing benefits.

However, here are a few points to consider:

1. BHA Concentration (5%): While effective, 5% Salicylic Acid is a high concentration for a leave-on product like a toner, especially for daily use. It significantly increases the risk of irritation, dryness, and peeling, particularly for those new to BHA or with sensitive skin.
   • Suggestion: Consider reducing the BHA concentration to 1-2% for a gentler daily toner. If aiming for a higher strength treatment, ensure the user understands the potential for irritation and recommends patch testing. Using the Encapsulated Salicylic Acid version (ID 1372) might offer a gentler, timed-release effect compared to the standard Complex Salicylic Acid (ID 2014).
2. pH Level: The efficacy of Salicylic Acid is highly dependent on the pH of the final product (ideally between pH 3-4 for optimal exfoliation). Niacinamide is most stable and least likely to cause flushing at a pH between 4-7.
   • Suggestion: It is crucial to measure and adjust the final pH of the toner. Achieving a low pH for BHA efficacy might increase the potential for irritation and could potentially affect Niacinamide stability or increase flushing for some individuals. You may need to find a balance (e.g., pH 3.5-4.5) or consider if the benefits of 4% Niacinamide at a lower pH are worth potential issues. The Encapsulated BHA might work at a slightly higher pH, which could be beneficial for Niacinamide stability.
3. Additional Soothing/Hydration: Given the high BHA concentration, adding more ingredients to soothe and hydrate the skin could improve tolerance.
   • Suggestion: Consider adding ingredients like Panthenol (Vitamin B5), Allantoin, or a small amount of Hyaluronic Acid or Sodium Hyaluronate to further enhance hydration and reduce potential irritation from the BHA.

In summary, the formula has strong potential for controlling oil and exfoliating. The main consideration is the high BHA concentration and the critical need to manage the final pH to balance efficacy and minimize irritation.