Toner Formulation: Texture Issue & Solubility Problems

Question

I formulated a toner using Wakame Extract (3%), Complex Salicylic Acid (5%), Lactobionic Acid (3%), Zinc PCA (1%), Laurocapram (2%), Rose Water (81.3%), EDTA (0.2%), Allantoin (0.5%), and Natural Betaine (4%). I observed a texture issue as shown in the picture. Could you please advise on the cause and whether it is still usable after shaking?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Toner Texture Issue: Possible Causes and Solutions

Based on the ingredients in your toner formulation, the texture issue you are seeing (likely separation or cloudiness) is most likely due to the solubility limits of some of the powdered ingredients in your water-based formula.

Here are the key ingredients that could be contributing to this:

Allantoin: Allantoin has limited solubility in water, especially at room temperature. The product description indicates its solubility is no more than 0.5% at 25°C. You are using Allantoin at 0.5%, which is right at this limit. While Natural Betaine can help, ensuring full dissolution often requires heating the water phase slightly.
Complex Salicylic Acid: You are using Complex Salicylic Acid (Powder, Water-Soluble) at 5%. The product description states this type can dissolve up to 5% in water. Formulating at the maximum recommended concentration can sometimes lead to solubility issues or cloudiness.
Zinc PCA: The solubility of Zinc PCA is highly dependent on the pH of the formula. The product description states it is highly soluble when the pH is in the range of 4-6. If your toner's pH is outside this range, Zinc PCA may precipitate.

Regarding usability after shaking:

Shaking will temporarily disperse the separated components, but it indicates an unstable formula. While you might be able to use it, it's not ideal for consistent application of ingredients. A stable, clear product is preferred.

To improve the stability and clarity of your toner:

Dissolve Allantoin Properly: Gently heat a portion of your Rose Water to around 75°C to fully dissolve the Allantoin before adding other ingredients. Allow it to cool.
Check and Adjust pH: Measure the pH of your final toner. If it's outside the 4-6 range, adjust it carefully using a cosmetic-grade acid or base to improve Zinc PCA solubility.
Review Complex Salicylic Acid: Consider if a slightly lower concentration might improve clarity while retaining efficacy.

Addressing the solubility of Allantoin and the pH for Zinc PCA are the most likely solutions.