Toner Formulation without Water and Added Preservatives

Asked by: mbam9397 On: November 16, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to create a toner formula based on the following ingredients and percentages, similar to a product I use where Aloe Vera Extract is listed before Witch Hazel. I would like to know if it's possible to make this formula without water and without adding additional preservatives, as I understand the Witch Hazel distilled already contains preservatives from the manufacturer.

Here is the list of ingredients and desired percentages:

  • Aloe Vera Extract 10:1: 3%
  • Niacinamide: 5%
  • Allantoin: 0.3%
  • Witch Hazel Distilled: The remaining percentage

I also plan to include Phenoxyethanol 0.5% and Caprylyl Glycol 0.5% in the formula.

Answer

Proposed Toner Formula

Based on the ingredient list from your product, the order of ingredients is generally from highest concentration to lowest. The list is: Distilled water, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Witch Hazel Extract, Niacinamide, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol, and Caprylyl Glycol.

Your observation that Aloe barbadensis leaf juice is listed before Witch Hazel Extract indicates that in this specific product, the concentration of Aloe Vera is higher than that of Witch Hazel. This is different from a general guideline that suggests Witch Hazel should be over 50% in some toner formulations, but it is perfectly valid depending on the desired properties of the toner.

You want a formula similar to your product, where Aloe Vera is at a higher concentration than Witch Hazel, and you've provided target percentages for Niacinamide (5%), Allantoin (0.5%), and Phenoxyethanol (0.5%), and included Caprylyl Glycol.

Here is a proposed formula structure based on your requirements and the typical usage rates of these ingredients, aiming for a similar profile to your original product where Aloe Vera is higher than Witch Hazel:

  • Distilled Water: Balance to 100%
  • Aloe Vera Extract (10:1 FullAssay™): 4%
  • Witch Hazel (Distillate - Alcohol Free, Paraben Free): 2%
  • Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5%
  • Allantoin: 0.5%
  • Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure): 0.5%
  • Caprylyl Glycol (1,2-Octanediol): 0.5%

In this formula:

  • Distilled Water makes up the majority of the formula (approximately 87.5%).
  • Aloe Vera Extract is included at 4%, which is higher than the 2% suggested for Witch Hazel, following the order in your original product.
  • Witch Hazel Distillate is included at 2%.
  • Niacinamide is at your target of 5%, which is a common and effective concentration for its various skin benefits.
  • Allantoin is at your target of 0.5%, which is the typical recommended usage rate due to its solubility in water at room temperature.
  • Phenoxyethanol is at your target of 0.5%.
  • Caprylyl Glycol is included at 0.5%.

Regarding your question about preservatives, Phenoxyethanol is a commonly used preservative effective against bacteria. Caprylyl Glycol is often used as a preservative booster and solvent, enhancing the efficacy of preservatives like Phenoxyethanol and contributing to the overall preservation system. Since your original product contains both, using them together (e.g., 0.5% Phenoxyethanol and 0.5% Caprylyl Glycol) provides a more robust, broad-spectrum preservation against bacteria, yeast, and mold compared to using Phenoxyethanol alone.

The suggestion from C7 to omit preservatives because the Witch Hazel distillate is preserved is generally not recommended for a complex formula containing multiple ingredients like extracts and vitamins. While the Witch Hazel itself is preserved, adding other components can introduce microbial contamination, and the preservative in the Witch Hazel alone may not be sufficient to protect the entire finished product over its shelf life. Including a dedicated preservative system like Phenoxyethanol and Caprylyl Glycol is advisable for stability and safety.