Troubleshooting Clumping and Foam in AHA Serum with Pro Polymer
Question
I am trying to make an AHA serum with the following formula:
- AHA 12%
- Pro Polymer 1%
- Water q.s.
I added AHA to water and dissolved it completely, then added the Pro Polymer. The problem is that the polymer powder clumps and doesn't dissolve in the water; it remains as small particles. Also, the gel texture has a lot of foam and is not the clear, smooth gel I want. How can I fix this?
I need a thicker texture but still clear and without air bubbles. What other thickeners can I use that will make the serum slightly thicker, give a nice smooth texture, and not cause air bubbles?
Answer
Hello!
It sounds like you're having trouble getting your Pro Polymer to dissolve smoothly in your AHA serum formulation, leading to clumps and foam. This is a common issue with polymer thickeners, often caused by the powder hydrating too quickly on the outside before water can reach the inside.
Here’s how you can try to fix this problem and improve your gel texture:
- Change the Order of Addition: Instead of adding the AHA first, try adding the Pro Polymer to the water before adding the AHA.
- Slow, Careful Dispersion: Slowly sprinkle the Pro Polymer powder onto the surface of the water while stirring continuously. Use a whisk or a mixer that provides some shear to help disperse the powder particles, but avoid mixing so vigorously that you whip a lot of air into the mixture.
- Allow Hydration Time: Polymers need time to fully hydrate and swell. After dispersing the powder, let the mixture sit for at least 30 minutes, or even several hours, stirring occasionally. The gel will thicken gradually as the polymer hydrates. Make sure the base gel is smooth and free of clumps before moving on.
- Add AHA: Once the polymer base is fully hydrated and smooth, slowly add your pre-dissolved AHA solution while stirring gently.
To Reduce Foam:
- Avoid overly vigorous mixing during the entire process.
- After the gel is complete, let the finished product sit undisturbed for a period (e.g., overnight). Trapped air bubbles will often rise to the surface and dissipate over time.
Alternative Thickeners:
If you continue to have issues or want to explore other options for a clear, smooth serum that is stable with high concentrations of AHA, consider these types of thickeners:
- Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC): This is a non-ionic polymer that often creates clear gels and is generally stable over a wide pH range, including acidic conditions.
- Xanthan Gum: A natural gum that can thicken serums. Choose a cosmetic grade for better clarity and texture. Proper dispersion (often in glycerin or a small amount of alcohol first, or very slow addition to water with high shear) is key to avoid clumps and achieve a smooth texture. It is also relatively stable at low pH.
- Other Acrylate Crosspolymers: Some specific types of acrylate crosspolymers are designed to be more tolerant of electrolytes or low pH environments than others. You might look for one specifically recommended for acidic formulations.
These alternatives might offer different textures and potentially be easier to work with in your specific formulation context.
Hope this helps you achieve the smooth, clear gel you're looking for!
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