Troubleshooting Cream Pilling

It sounds like you're experiencing pilling with your cream formulation, where the product rolls up into small flakes when applied. This is a common issue often related to the interaction of ingredients, particularly polymers and solid particles.

Based on the ingredients you provided:

• Aqupec HV-805EP (likely a polymer thickener)
• Isopropyl Palmitate (IPP)
• Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20)
• Fragrance
• Supguard GM-BP
• Titanium AV01 (likely a treated Titanium Dioxide)
• Triethanolamine (TEA)
• Water

Here are the most probable causes and how to address them:

Potential Causes of Pilling

1. Polymer Issues (Aqupec HV-805EP): Polymers like Aqupec are used to thicken and stabilize creams. If the polymer is not fully hydrated, used at too high a concentration, or incompatible with other ingredients, it can form a film that pills when rubbed.
2. Neutralization Imbalance (Triethanolamine and Aqupec HV-805EP): Triethanolamine is used to neutralize acidic polymers like Aqupec, which is essential for proper thickening. The ratio of neutralizer to polymer is critical. Your formula uses 0.87% Aqupec and 1.74% Triethanolamine (a 2:1 ratio of TEA to polymer). This ratio is often higher than typically recommended for optimal neutralization of many common Carbomer-type polymers. Over-neutralization can lead to a less stable or more brittle gel structure prone to pilling.
3. Solid Particle Dispersion (Titanium AV01): Titanium Dioxide is a solid particle. If not perfectly dispersed or if it interferes with the polymer network, it can contribute to pilling. Treated Titanium Dioxide, like those treated with Dimethicone or Triethoxycaprylylsilane, requires proper dispersion.
4. Ingredient Incompatibility: Interactions between the polymer, emulsifier (Polysorbate 20), oil phase (Isopropyl Palmitate), and other ingredients like Fragrance or Supguard GM-BP (whose nature is unknown) can destabilize the formula.
5. Application Method: Applying too much product or rubbing vigorously can also cause pilling.

Solutions and Troubleshooting

1. Review Polymer Neutralization:
   • Check the technical data sheet for your specific Aqupec HV-805EP for the recommended neutralization ratio with Triethanolamine. Adjust the TEA percentage accordingly. You may be using too much TEA relative to the polymer.
   • Ensure the Aqupec HV-805EP is fully hydrated before adding the Triethanolamine.
   • Add Triethanolamine slowly to the hydrated polymer phase with gentle, effective mixing.
2. Improve Solid Particle Dispersion:
   • Ensure the Titanium AV01 is thoroughly dispersed. If it's oil-dispersible, pre-disperse it completely in the Isopropyl Palmitate phase before combining phases. Use high shear mixing if needed.
3. Check Ingredient Compatibility:
   • If possible, identify the chemical nature of Supguard GM-BP and check for incompatibilities with other ingredients.
   • Ensure the overall balance of oil phase, water phase, and Polysorbate 20 is appropriate for your system.
4. Optimize Manufacturing Process:
   • Review your mixing procedure. Ensure adequate mixing during hydration and emulsification. Avoid excessive mixing after the emulsion forms.
5. Adjust Formulation (if needed):
   • Consider slightly reducing the concentration of Aqupec HV-805EP if other steps don't work.
   • Ensure the final pH is optimal for Aqupec HV-805EP.
6. Consider Application:
   • Advise users to apply a thin layer and pat or gently smooth the cream rather than rubbing vigorously.

Addressing these points, particularly the polymer neutralization and particle dispersion, should help resolve the pilling issue.