Troubleshooting Ethylcellulose Dissolution in Oil-Based Formulation
Question
I am trying to create a formulation using the following ingredients and percentages:
Octyldodecanol: 45.240Hydrogenated Polyisobutene: 28.270Plandool-G: 7.730CERAMIDE COMPLEX: 0.500Super Fruit Oil: 0.590Tocopheryl Acetate: 0.590Cherry Kernel Oil: 0.590Phytosqualan: 1.190polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate: 8.000Ethylcellulose (100 cps.): 5.500Microcrystalline Wax (Melting Point 77C, Medium): 0.300Natural White Beeswax (USA, Melting 62C, Deodorized): 0.200phenoxyethanol: 0.500
My initial procedure involved mixing Octyldodecanol with Plandool-G, then heating the mixture to 85-90°C. After reaching this temperature, I added Ethylcellulose in portions. However, after the Ethylcellulose started to dissolve and I added the other ingredients, the mixture remained lumpy with undissolved particles, even after heating for 3 hours at 85-90°C. How can I fix this issue to achieve a smooth texture?
Answer
Troubleshooting Ethylcellulose Dissolution in Your Formulation
It sounds like you're having trouble getting your Ethylcellulose to fully dissolve in your formulation, resulting in clumps. This is a common issue if the Ethylcellulose isn't properly dispersed before heating.
Based on the information for Ethylcellulose (100 cps.), the recommended method for dissolving it in oil is to first add the Ethylcellulose to the oil phase (in your case, Octyldodecanol, Plandool-G, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, and other oils/esters) and blend thoroughly until it is fully dispersed as a powder in the oil. Only after it is well-dispersed should you heat the mixture to 70-85°C and maintain the temperature with stirring until the Ethylcellulose dissolves completely and the mixture becomes clear.
Adding the Ethylcellulose while the mixture is already hot can cause the outer layer of the powder particles to gel or dissolve rapidly, forming a barrier that prevents the oil from reaching the inner core of the particles, leading to clumping that is difficult to resolve even with prolonged heating.
To fix this, try the following steps:
- Combine all your oil-soluble ingredients (Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Plandool-G, CERAMIDE COMPLEX, Super Fruit Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cherry Kernel Oil, Phytosqualan, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Microcrystalline Wax, Natural White Beeswax, phenoxyethanol).
- Add the Ethylcellulose (100 cps.) powder to this oil mixture at room temperature.
- Mix or blend the mixture well until the Ethylcellulose (100 cps.) powder is evenly dispersed throughout the oil phase with no visible dry clumps.
- Once dispersed, heat the mixture to 70-85°C and stir continuously until the Ethylcellulose (100 cps.) dissolves completely and the mixture is clear and smooth.
- Proceed with the rest of your formulation steps.
This method ensures that the oil can properly interact with all the Ethylcellulose particles as the temperature rises, allowing for complete and smooth dissolution.
Regarding the specific ingredients you mentioned:
- Octyldodecanol is a low-polarity fatty alcohol that is a good solvent for many cosmetic ingredients.
- Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate is primarily used as a water-in-oil emulsifier but is soluble in oil.
- Ethylcellulose (100 cps.) is an oil thickener and film former that requires heating in a suitable oil (like polar oils) to dissolve properly after being dispersed.
By adjusting your process to ensure the Ethylcellulose is fully dispersed before heating, you should be able to achieve a smooth, lump-free texture.
We hope this helps you resolve the issue with your formulation!