Troubleshooting Gel Pomade "Soaping" Issue

It sounds like you've done extensive testing on your Gel Pomade formulation and have achieved good clarity and hold, but are facing a common challenge with water-based styling products: the formation of a white, soap-like residue when rubbed on the hands.

This issue, often referred to as "soaping" or electrolyte sensitivity, typically occurs when ingredients in the formulation react with salts present on the skin (from sweat) or in the water used. The primary culprits in your formula and the staff's suggested formula are likely the non-ionic thickeners/emulsifiers like Ceteareth-25 and potentially the interaction with the film-forming polymer like Polyvinylpyrrolidone K90 (PVP-K90).

Here's a breakdown of why this happens and how to troubleshoot it:

Understanding the Cause

• Electrolyte Sensitivity: Ceteareth-25 and some other non-ionic surfactants and polymers can lose their ability to keep the formula clear and stable in the presence of electrolytes (salts). When you rub the pomade on your hands, the salts in your sweat disrupt the gel structure, causing the ingredients to precipitate and become visible as a white residue.
• Ingredient Interaction: The specific combination and ratios of Ceteareth-25, PVP-K90, humectants (Propylene Glycol, Glycerin), and solubilizers (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil) can influence the formula's stability against electrolytes.

Troubleshooting Steps

1. Test the Staff's Suggested Formula: The staff provided a formula including Ceteareth-25 (Paste Maker™), PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (coco-wash™), Glycerin, PVP K-90, and water. Try formulating this exact recipe to see if the soaping issue occurs. If it doesn't, the problem is specific to your original formula's ratios or other ingredients. If it does, it suggests the issue is inherent to using Ceteareth-25 and PVP-K90 together under these conditions, or the specific grades.

2. Water Purity: Ensure you are using high-purity water, such as deionized or distilled water. Minerals and salts in tap water can contribute significantly to electrolyte sensitivity.

3. Review "Others" Ingredients: Carefully examine the ingredients you listed as "others". Do any of these introduce salts or electrolytes into the formula? Even small amounts can cause instability.

4. Adjust Ingredient Ratios: Experiment with the concentrations of Ceteareth-25 and PVP-K90. While you reduced Ceteareth-25, the optimal ratio between the gelling agent, polymer, and humectants is crucial. The staff's formula uses a higher percentage of Ceteareth-25 (25%) than your current 15-17%. Testing higher or different ratios might help.

5. Consider Alternative Thickeners/Gelling Agents: If Ceteareth-25 continues to be problematic, you might need to explore alternative gelling polymers that are more tolerant to electrolytes. Options could include certain acrylate copolymers designed for electrolyte tolerance or other non-ionic thickeners, depending on the desired texture and clarity.

6. PVP Grade: You are using PVP K-90, which provides strong hold. Lower molecular weight grades like Polyvinylpyrrolidone K30 (PVP-K30) or Polyvinylpyrrolidone K60 (PVP-K60) might have different interactions with other ingredients and potentially less tendency to contribute to residue, though they offer less hold. Experimenting with a blend of PVP grades or a different single grade could be an option if PVP is contributing to the issue.

7. Processing Method: Ensure all ingredients, especially Ceteareth-25 and PVP-K90, are fully hydrated and properly dispersed. Heating is usually required to fully dissolve Ceteareth-25. Avoid excessive high-shear mixing after the gel structure has formed, as this can sometimes break down the structure.

By systematically investigating these factors, particularly the interaction of your ingredients with electrolytes and the specific ratios used, you should be able to identify the cause of the soaping issue and achieve a stable, clear gel pomade.