Troubleshooting Lotion Formulation with Light Lotion Maker

Based on the formula and method you provided, the main issue preventing your lotion from forming a cream texture is likely the incorrect timing for adding water-soluble thickeners and gelling agents.

Ingredients like Colem TT, Natto Gum, Double Hyaluron Liquid Acid, and Skin Tight MD TM Liquid are crucial for building viscosity and structure in the water phase. They need sufficient time and hydration (and heat in a hot process) to swell and fully develop their thickening properties before the oil and water phases are combined to form an emulsion. Adding them later, especially after attempting to create the emulsion or as it cools, prevents them from functioning effectively and can interfere with the emulsification process.

Light Lotion Maker (ID 5938) is an effective O/W emulsifier that can handle up to 40% oil and provide a light texture. It can be used in both hot and cold processes. Using it in combination with Emulium Delta MB is a common practice to enhance stability and texture. However, the success of the emulsion heavily relies on the proper preparation of both the water and oil phases, particularly the full hydration of water-soluble thickeners.

Additionally, heating Cyclopentasiloxane in the oil phase might lead to some evaporation, potentially affecting the final formula composition.

Recommended Corrected Method:

Follow standard O/W emulsification principles:

1. Prepare the Water Phase:

   • Combine all water-soluble ingredients from Part 1 (Distilled Water, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Ectoine, Energy-Blend, GABA, Colem TT, Ethy Ascobic Acid, Double Hyaluron Liquid Acid) and water-soluble ingredients from Part 2 (Yerba Santa Protein, 1,2-Hexanediol, Natto Gum, Carota Sativa Root Extract, Skin Tight MD TM Liquid) in a heat-resistant container.
   • Mix well and heat this water phase to approximately 45-50°C.
   • Stir continuously to ensure all powders and thickeners fully dissolve and hydrate. You should observe the water phase starting to thicken. This step is critical.

2. Prepare the Oil Phase:

   • Combine all oil-soluble ingredients from Part 3 (Jojoba Oil, Active & Natural Extract >> SpecKare® EyeS 100, LipidSoft™ Lite, Light Lotion Maker, Emulium® Delta MB, Cyclopentasiloxane) in a separate heat-resistant container.
   • Mix well and heat this oil phase to approximately 45-50°C to help dissolve the emulsifiers (Light Lotion Maker and Emulium Delta MB) and other oil-soluble components.

3. Emulsification Step:

   • Once both phases are at similar temperatures (45-50°C), slowly pour the oil phase into the water phase while continuously using a high-shear mixer (such as a homogenizer or high-speed stirrer). Maintain high-speed mixing throughout the addition of the oil phase. High shear is essential at this stage to create a fine and stable emulsion.
   • Continue mixing at medium to high speed while the emulsion cools down.

4. Add Heat-Sensitive and Other Ingredients:

   • When the emulsion has cooled below 40°C, add the heat-sensitive ingredients (Pep®-Radiance, Pep®-Eye, Dipeptide-2) and AHC-Pep™.
   • Add the ingredients from Part 4 (Mild Preserved Eco, Apple Blossom).
   • Mix thoroughly until the lotion is smooth and uniform.

In Summary:

The primary error was adding the thickeners after the emulsification attempt. Ensure all water-soluble thickeners are fully hydrated in the water phase before combining phases and use high-shear mixing during the emulsification step. Adjusting your method according to these steps should help you achieve the desired cream texture.