Troubleshooting Low Viscosity and White Streaks in Cream Formulation

Based on your formula, here are the reasons why the cream is liquid and leaves white streaks, along with suggestions for improvement:

1. Why the cream is liquid

• Low Water-Phase Thickener: You are using Hydroxyethyl Cellulose at only 0.2%. This concentration is too low to provide significant viscosity to the water phase. For a cream texture, this should typically be increased to 0.6% – 1.0%.
• Low Total Oil/Wax Content: Your total oil phase and waxes (Coconut Oil, Mineral Oil, LipidSoft™ Lite, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, and Fatty Alcohols) make up about 12.5% of the formula. For a thick cream, the combination of oils and structuring waxes usually needs to be higher, or the water phase must be more heavily thickened.
• Emulsifier Nature: Milk Lotion Maker (Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate) is a very stable emulsifier but does not provide high viscosity on its own. it relies heavily on fatty alcohols and water-phase thickeners to build body.

2. Why it leaves white streaks (Soap Effect)

• Stearic Acid & Waxes: A high concentration of Stearic Acid combined with certain emulsifiers often causes a "soaping effect" or white streaks during application.
• Insufficient Spreading/Silicone: While you have Dimethicone, the ratio of waxes to spreading oils might still be unbalanced, leading to the drag and whitening effect.

Recommendations for Adjustment

To make the cream thicker and reduce white streaks, try the following:

• Increase Viscosity:
  • Increase Hydroxyethyl Cellulose to 0.8% – 1.0%.
  • Increase Cetyl Alcohol or Cetearyl Alcohol by an additional 1% – 2%. These act as structuring agents that build the "body" of the cream.
• Reduce White Streaks:
  • Reduce Stearic Acid to 0.5%. This will significantly help reduce the whitening effect.
  • Ensure the cream is thoroughly homogenized during the cooling phase.
• Improve Texture:
  • Consider adding a polymer thickener that provides a better skin feel and helps "kill" the soap effect, such as a carbomer or a synthetic polymer (if compatible with your active ingredients). However, since you have high electrolytes (Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin), Hydroxyethyl Cellulose is a good choice as it is electrolyte-resistant. Just increasing its dosage should help.

Revised Ingredient Names (for your reference in the catalog):

• Lexemul 561 is referred to as Milk Lotion Maker.
• HEC is Hydroxyethyl Cellulose.
• OX is Protec™ OX.
• Niacinamide B3 is Safe-B3™.
• Panthenol B5 is Vitamin B5 (Extra Pure).
• Mineral Oil 26 is Mineral Oil (Paraffinum Liquidum) Light (26cst).