Troubleshooting Pro Polymer Gel Formulation: Clumping and Air Bubbles
คำถาม
I am trying to make a serum/gel with the following formulation:
- AHA 12%
- Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer) 1%
- Water (remaining portion)
I poured the AHA into the water and stirred until completely dissolved. Then I added the Pro Polymer, but the powder is clumping and not dissolving in the water; it's full of small particles. Also, the gel texture has a lot of foam/air bubbles and is not the clear, smooth gel I want. How can I fix this?
I need the texture to be slightly more viscous, clear, and smooth, without air bubbles. What other thickeners can I use that would make the serum slightly more viscous with a nice, smooth texture and no air bubbles?
คำตอบ
Subject: Re: Advice on Pro Polymer clumping
Hello,
It sounds like you're having trouble dispersing the Pro Polymer powder, which is a common issue if not done correctly. Pro Polymer (Acrylate Crosspolymer) is a type of thickener that needs to be properly dispersed in the water phase before it can hydrate and thicken the solution upon neutralization.
Here's why it might be clumping and how to fix it:
- Dispersion: The powder needs to be added very slowly to the water phase while stirring continuously and vigorously. If you dump it in too quickly, the outer particles get wet and form a barrier, preventing water from reaching the inner particles, causing clumps.
- Order of Addition: While Pro Polymer can be dispersed in acidic solutions like your water/AHA mix, it won't thicken until the pH is raised (neutralized). The clumping is a dispersion issue, not a thickening issue at this stage.
- Mixing: Vigorous mixing is needed for dispersion, but excessive speed can introduce air bubbles (foam).
How to try again with Pro Polymer:
- Start with your water phase.
- Add the Pro Polymer powder very slowly to the vortex of the stirring water. Use a mixer or stir rod that creates a good vortex. Ensure each particle gets wet as it enters the water. Continue stirring until the powder appears fully dispersed (it might still look cloudy, but there should be no dry clumps). This can take some time.
- Once dispersed, add your AHA 12% solution and mix well.
- Now, you need to neutralize the polymer to thicken it. You'll need a base like Triethanolamine or Sodium Hydroxide solution. Add the base drop by drop while stirring. As the pH rises (check with pH paper/meter), the solution will start to thicken and become clearer. Continue adding the base until you reach your desired pH (usually around 5.5-6.5 for skin products, but check the specific requirements for AHA and the polymer). Be careful not to over-neutralize.
- To reduce foam, stir at a slower speed once thickening begins. You can also let the finished gel sit for a while to allow bubbles to rise and dissipate.
Alternative Thickeners:
If you continue to have trouble with Pro Polymer or want something potentially easier to work with for a clear, slightly viscous serum with AHA, consider these:
- Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC): Often easier to hydrate than carbomers. Can produce clear gels and is compatible with many ingredients, including some acids. Usually dispersed in water and hydrates over time.
- Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose (HPMC): Similar to HEC, provides viscosity and clarity. Hydrates in water.
Both HEC and HPMC are generally less sensitive to electrolytes and pH changes compared to carbomers like Acrylate Crosspolymer, which might make them more stable in an AHA formulation.
Remember to always check the supplier's specific instructions for the thickener you choose, as hydration methods can vary slightly.
Hope this helps!
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
