Troubleshooting Your Shampoo Formulation

It sounds like your homemade shampoo is causing hair tangling, which is a common issue in shampoo formulations. Based on your ingredients, here are the likely reasons and how to fix them:

Potential Causes of Tangling

1. Harshness of Sodium Coco Sulphate (SCS): SCS is an anionic surfactant that provides good cleansing and foam, but it can be quite stripping to the hair's natural oils and cuticle, leaving the hair feeling rough and prone to tangling, especially at higher concentrations or when not balanced with milder ingredients.
2. Insufficient Conditioning: While you included Lanolin, 1.5% might not be enough to provide sufficient conditioning and slip to counteract the cleansing power of the surfactants, particularly SCS. Also, if you used the Anhydrous Lanolin type, it might not disperse well in a water-based shampoo, leading to uneven conditioning.
3. Surfactant Balance: The ratio and combination of Cocamidopropyl Betaine and SCS might not be optimally balanced for mildness and conditioning.
4. pH Level: The pH of the shampoo can affect the hair cuticle. A pH that is too alkaline can cause the cuticle to lift, increasing friction and tangling.

How to Fix the Tangling Issue

Here are some ways to adjust your formula:

1. Adjust Surfactants:
   • Consider reducing the concentration of Sodium Coco Sulphate (SCS).
   • You could also try replacing part of the SCS with a milder primary surfactant like Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) or Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) if available.
   • Experiment with the ratio of Cocamidopropyl Betaine to the primary anionic surfactant. Increasing the proportion of milder surfactants can help.
2. Increase Conditioning:
   • Ensure you are using Lanolin Water Soluble (PEG-75 Lanolin), which is designed to disperse in water-based formulas. If you used the Anhydrous Lanolin, switch to the water-soluble type.
   • Increase the concentration of Lanolin Water Soluble (PEG-75 Lanolin). A usage rate of 3-5% is often recommended for conditioning.
   • Consider adding a cationic conditioning polymer specifically designed for shampoos, such as Polyquaternium-7 or Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride. These ingredients deposit on the hair surface, providing excellent slip and detangling properties.
3. Check and Adjust pH: Measure the pH of your finished shampoo. Aim for a slightly acidic pH, typically between 4.5 and 6.0. You can use a citric acid solution to lower the pH if needed. An acidic pH helps to smooth the hair cuticle.
4. Evaluate Thickener: While less likely to be the primary cause, ensure the thickener you are using is suitable for shampoo and not contributing to a sticky feel on the hair.

By adjusting the surfactant system for more mildness and significantly boosting the conditioning elements, you should be able to reduce or eliminate the hair tangling issue.