Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) Product Details and Serum Formulation Advice
Question
Please provide detailed product information, recommended usage instructions, and formulation suggestions for incorporating Ume Extract (Japanese Plum Extract) into a cosmetic serum. Specifically, I need to know the recommended usage rate, solubility, and guidance on how to integrate this ingredient effectively into a water-based serum formulation.
Answer
Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) Product Details and Serum Formulation
The Ume Extract (Japanese Plum Extract) available is primarily marketed for its Anti-Glycation properties, which is crucial for maintaining a bright, youthful skin tone, especially in aging skin.
1. Product Details (Ume Extract - Anti-Glycation)
- Product ID: 1058
- Key Function: Anti-Glycation. It helps reduce or delay the skin's glycation process, which is a reaction between sugar compounds and proteins (cross-link reaction) that leads to the formation of Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs).
- Benefit: Glycation causes the skin to develop a yellow or brownish-yellow appearance, often associated with older Asian skin. By inhibiting this process, Ume Extract helps the skin maintain its original bright, fresh tone.
- Mechanism: It works through multiple mechanisms, including stopping the cross-link reaction between sugar and protein and reducing the effects of this reaction, thereby preventing the formation of AGEs.
- Compatibility Note: Traditional skin-whitening ingredients often do not address the yellowing caused by glycation, making Ume Extract a necessary addition for comprehensive brightening.
2. Usage Method and Formulation Advice
- Recommended Usage Rate: Typically used at 1-5% in cosmetic formulations.
- Solubility: Water-soluble. It should be incorporated into the water phase of the serum.
- pH: Generally stable across a wide pH range, but it is best to check the specific product\'s technical data sheet for optimal pH. A typical serum pH of 5.5-6.5 is usually suitable.
- How to Incorporate into a Serum: Add the Ume Extract to the cooled water phase of your serum formulation (after heating, if applicable, and cooling below 40°C) before adjusting the pH and adding the preservative.
3. Serum Formulation Suggestions (Anti-Glycation & Brightening Serum)
Ume Extract is highly compatible with common serum ingredients, particularly those focused on brightening and hydration, as seen in commercial examples.
| Ingredient Type | Example Ingredients | Function in Serum |
|---|---|---|
| Water Phase | Deionized Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin | Solvent, Humectant, Carrier |
| Active Ingredient | Ume Extract (Anti-Glycation) | Anti-Glycation, Brightening |
| Synergistic Active | Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) | Overall skin conditioning, brightening, pore reduction (often paired with Ume Extract in commercial products) |
| Thickener/Stabilizer | Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer | Viscosity control, texture enhancement |
| Emulsifier (if needed) | PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (for light emulsions) | Solubilizer/Emulsifier |
| pH Adjuster | Tromethamine, Triethanolamine | Adjust pH to final desired range (e.g., 5.5-6.5) |
| Preservative | Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin | Product preservation |
Example Formulation Concept (Water-Based Serum):
- Water Phase (A): Water (up to 100%), Butylene Glycol (3-5%), Glycerin (2-3%), Carbomer (0.2-0.5%).
- Actives (B): Ume Extract (1-3%), Niacinamide (2-5%).
- Neutralizer/pH Adjuster (C): Tromethamine (q.s. to pH 5.5-6.5).
- Preservative (D): Preservative blend (q.s.).
Process: Disperse Carbomer in water (A). Add humectants. Mix until homogeneous. Add Actives (B) to the water phase. Neutralize with (C) to thicken and adjust pH. Add Preservative (D). Mix well.
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