Underarm Brightening and Smoothing Gel/Serum Formulation
Question
Based on my interest in using ingredients such as AHA (Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid), Niacinamide, Alpha Arbutin, Licorice Extract, Vitamin C, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Amino Acids, and Urea, how can I formulate a lightweight gel or serum for underarm skin to address darkness and bumpiness, aiming for brightening and smoothing while reducing irritation?
Answer
Underarm Skin Brightening and Smoothing Formulation
Dark and bumpy underarm skin is a common concern. The correct approach to address this is gentle exfoliation combined with brightening ingredients and strengthening the skin barrier to reduce irritation, aligning with your and the experts' discussion.
Based on the ingredients you are interested in and the various recommendations, a formulation for underarm skin in a lightweight gel or serum format can be developed as follows:
Recommended Key Ingredients:
- AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) Exfoliants: Help accelerate the shedding of dead skin cells, revealing smoother and brighter skin.
- Lactic Acid: A milder AHA than Glycolic Acid, suitable for sensitive areas like the underarms. We recommend using Lactic Acid (AHA) Neutralized (pH 4.0-4.5 at 10% concentration) or Lactic Acid (AHA) 90% Deodorized (requires pH adjustment). Start with a low concentration, such as 5-8% and adjust the formula's pH to be between 3.5-4.0 for optimal AHA efficacy and reduced irritation, as suggested by the staff.
- Glycolic Acid: Has a smaller molecule and can exfoliate effectively but may cause more irritation than Lactic Acid. If you wish to use it, start with a very low concentration or choose Ampho-Glycolic™, a Glycolic Acid designed specifically to reduce irritation.
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): As recommended by the expert, Niacinamide is highly beneficial for brightening skin, reducing hyperpigmentation and redness, strengthening the skin barrier, and reducing inflammation. It can be used at a concentration of 5% or up to 10%. Choose a high-purity grade like Safe-B3™ or Extreme-B3™ to minimize the chance of flushing (redness).
- Other Brightening Agents: Enhance the effectiveness in reducing dark spots.
- Alpha Arbutin: A safe and effective skin brightener that helps reduce melanin production. We recommend using it at a concentration of 1-2%. You can choose between Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland) or Alpha Arbutin (China).
- Licorice Extract: Known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and skin brightening properties. You can choose Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A) which focuses on reducing inflammation, or Pure-Glabridin™ Licorice Extract which focuses on brightening.
- Vitamin C: Use a stable form like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, which is highly water-soluble and stable. It can be used at around 3% concentration and is compatible with the recommended pH range for AHA formulas (pH 3.5-6.0).
- Soothing and Hydrating Agents: Help reduce irritation, strengthen the skin, and provide smoothness.
- Panthenol (Vitamin B5): Soothes skin, reduces inflammation, strengthens the skin barrier, and provides good hydration. We recommend using it at a concentration of 1-3% from either Panthenol (Vitamin B5) powder or D-Panthenol Care liquid.
- Sodium PCA: A component of the skin's natural Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF), it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin, preventing dryness and roughness. We recommend using Sodium PCA 50% at a concentration of 0.5-2%.
- Amino Acids: Essential components of NMF, they help keep the skin hydrated and healthy. You can choose Natural Moisturizing Amino Acids or Baby Face Protein, which is an NMF complex containing various amino acids and minerals to enhance hydration and skin recovery. Recommended concentration is 1-5%.
- Urea: At low concentrations (e.g., 3-5%), it provides hydration and gentle exfoliation. However, it requires stabilization in the formula with Gluconolactone or Triacetin and may have a characteristic odor. For simplicity, using just Panthenol, Sodium PCA, and Amino Acids might be sufficient.
Precautions and Additional Recommendations:
- Patch Testing: Since underarm skin is sensitive, always test the product on a small area first before full application.
- Start Gradually: Begin using products containing AHA at low concentrations and slowly increase the frequency of use or concentration if your skin tolerates it well.
- Avoid Use After Hair Removal: Do not apply products containing AHA or other exfoliants immediately after shaving, plucking, or waxing your underarms. Allow the skin to recover first.
- Reduce Friction: Friction from clothing or activities can contribute to underarm darkening. Choose clothing that is not too tight.
- Consistency: Results take time and consistent application (as the expert recommended, 4-6 weeks or more).
This formulation focuses on the synergy of gentle exfoliants, brightening agents, and ingredients that strengthen and hydrate the skin, which should effectively help address dark and bumpy underarm skin concerns.
Related Products Mentioned
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Urea (High Purity, Cosmetics, Powder)
Sodium PCA 50%
HYDRO-UREA® Liquid