Understanding a Cream Base Formula and Adding Actives
คำถาม
I have a formula with the following ingredients:
- Water
- Isopropyl Myristate
- Behentrimonium Chloride
- Dimethicone
- Cetearyl Alcohol
- Cetyl Alcohol
- Diglycerin
- Perfum
- Panthenol (PreB5™)
- Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
- Methylparaben
- Propylparaben
- Trideceth-5
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
Could you please explain the function of each ingredient in this formula? Is this a complete product or a base? How can I add active ingredients to this formula to make it a nourishing cream or lotion?
คำตอบ
Understanding Your Cream Base Formula
Based on the ingredients you provided and the clarification from our staff, the list represents a base formula for a cream or lotion. It contains essential components for forming an emulsion but lacks active ingredients typically used for skin nourishment. Our staff correctly pointed out that you would need to add these for the product to provide significant skin benefits.
Here’s a look at the key ingredients in your base formula and their roles:
- Water: The main component and solvent.
- Isopropyl Myristate: An emollient that provides a light, non-greasy feel and helps skin feel soft. Our staff suggested that other emollients from the LipidSoft range could be used as alternatives.
- Behentrimonium Chloride: Primarily a conditioning agent, often used in hair care, but also helps condition the skin.
- Dimethicone: A silicone that gives the product a smooth texture and forms a protective barrier on the skin to reduce moisture loss.
- Cetearyl Alcohol & Cetyl Alcohol: Fatty alcohols that act as thickeners and stabilizers, giving the cream its structure. They also offer some emollient properties. Cetearyl Alcohol is a blend that is generally milder and provides better skin coating than Cetyl Alcohol alone. They require an emulsifier to work effectively.
- Diglycerin: A humectant that helps the skin retain moisture, similar to Glycerin but with potentially better efficacy.
- Perfum: Added for fragrance.
- Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): A humectant that hydrates and soothes the skin. PreB5™ is a precursor to Panthenol.
- Phenoxyethanol: A widely used preservative. The "Extra Pure" grade is designed to minimize irritation. Our staff noted that Parabens (like Methylparaben and Propylparaben) are less commonly used now, suggesting alternative preservatives are preferable.
- Trideceth-5: An emulsifier that helps blend the water and oil phases.
- TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate: Our staff advised that this surfactant is not crucial for this formula and can be omitted.
Adding Active Ingredients
To transform this base into a nourishing product, you would incorporate active ingredients tailored to your desired skin benefits (e.g., hydration, anti-aging, soothing). These are typically added during the cooling phase of mixing.
General Mixing Guide
Formulating a cream or lotion generally follows these steps:
- Heat Water Phase: Combine water and water-soluble ingredients (like Diglycerin, Panthenol, and water-soluble preservatives) and heat to the required temperature (usually 70-80°C).
- Heat Oil Phase: Combine oil-soluble ingredients (like Isopropyl Myristate, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, and emulsifiers like Trideceth-5) and heat to the same temperature as the water phase until solids are melted.
- Emulsify: Slowly add the hot oil phase to the hot water phase while stirring or homogenizing until an emulsion forms and begins to thicken.
- Cooling: Continue stirring as the mixture cools. Below 40°C, add heat-sensitive ingredients such as fragrance and active ingredients.
- Finalize: Once at room temperature, check and adjust the consistency and pH as needed.
Always refer to the specific instructions and recommended usage rates for each raw material you use.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Cetyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Alcohol (50/50, e.q. Lanette O)
Dimethicone (Light/50, Low-Odor)
Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC)
Trideceth-5
Isopropyl Myristate (Deodorized)
Diglycerin (90%, Colorless)