Understanding Polyglutamic Acid (PGA) and Molecular Weight Differences
Question
What is the difference between high and low molecular weight Polyglutamic Acid (PGA) and how do they function differently on the skin? Specifically, how do large molecules (high molecular weight) and small molecules (low molecular weight) work?
Answer
Understanding Polyglutamic Acid (PGA) in Skincare
Polyglutamic Acid (PGA) is a powerful moisturizing ingredient derived from fermented soybeans. It is known for its ability to hold a significant amount of moisture, potentially even more effectively than Hyaluronic Acid.
Beyond just hydration, PGA offers several benefits for the skin:
- Inhibits Hyaluronidase: Helps protect the skin's natural Hyaluronic Acid levels.
- Increases HA and NMFs: Boosts the skin's own production of moisturizing factors.
- Enhances Moisture Retention: Improves the skin's ability to stay hydrated.
- Calms Sensitive Skin: Helps strengthen the skin barrier.
Differences Between High and Low Molecular Weight PGA
The primary difference between high and low molecular weight PGA lies in their size, which affects how they interact with the skin and thus their properties and ideal use in formulations:
High Molecular Weight PGA: Due to its larger size, high molecular weight PGA primarily stays on the surface of the skin. It forms a protective film that helps to lock in moisture and prevent transepidermal water loss. This provides immediate surface hydration and a smoothing effect.
Low / Super Low Molecular Weight PGA: These smaller molecules are able to penetrate deeper into the skin layers. They work to hydrate the skin from within, helping to improve overall skin moisture levels and potentially stimulating the skin's own moisturizing mechanisms.
In summary, high molecular weight PGA focuses on surface hydration and barrier support, while low molecular weight PGA aims for deeper hydration within the epidermis.
When formulating, you might choose a specific molecular weight based on the desired effect (surface film vs. deeper hydration) or even combine different molecular weights to achieve comprehensive hydration benefits. Products available include gamma-Polyglutamic acid (High Molecule Weight), gamma-Polyglutamic acid (Low Molecule Weight), and gamma-Polyglutamic acid (Super Low Molecule Weight).