Understanding the process of making O/W cream and W/Si serum

Asked by: arawin.w On: April 02, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Based on my understanding, is the following correct regarding the process of making cosmetic formulations using specific emulsifiers?

  1. Making a cream (Oil-in-Water emulsion): To make a cream with water and oil using an emulsifier like Light Cream Maker, I should add the emulsifier to the oil phase. If adding silicone like Cyclomethicone, it should also be added to the oil phase before gradually adding the water phase to the oil phase to form the cream.
  2. Making a serum (Water-in-Silicone emulsion): To make a serum with more silicone than water using an emulsifier like Warp Cream Maker, I should mix the silicone and Warp Cream Maker together. Oil-soluble ingredients or solutions should be added to this phase. Then, I should gradually add the water phase and mix to get the serum.

Is this understanding correct, and are there any tips regarding the mixing process?

Answer

Subject: Regarding your understanding before making cream

Hello,

Thank you for asking about your understanding of cosmetic formulation.

Based on the information you provided, including the reply from cosmeceutical7 (C7), your understanding of both points is correct:

  • Making a cream (Oil-in-Water emulsion): To make a cream with water and oil using an emulsifier like Light Cream Maker, you add the emulsifier to the oil phase. If adding silicone like Cyclomethicone, it should also be added to the oil phase before gradually adding the water phase to the oil phase to form the cream.
  • Making a serum (Water-in-Silicone emulsion): To make a serum with more silicone than water using an emulsifier like Warp Cream Maker, you mix the silicone and Warp Cream Maker together. Oil-soluble ingredients or solutions should be added to this phase. Then, gradually add the water phase and mix to get the serum.

C7 also provided a helpful tip regarding the process:

  • When adding one phase to the other (e.g., water to oil), adding it gradually rather than all at once will help the cream or serum emulsify and form the desired texture more easily and quickly. Adding the water phase bit by bit to the oil phase (or vice versa, depending on the emulsion type) and mixing well after each addition will result in a smoother process compared to pouring the entire phase in at once, which requires much more mixing effort.

Your understanding aligns with standard formulation principles for these types of emulsions.