Use of Azelaic Acid and Benzoyl Peroxide in Cosmetics

Asked by: indigo.ipd On: March 25, 2026 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

Can the following ingredients be used as components in cosmetic formulations?

  • Azelaic Acid
  • Benzoyl Peroxide

Answer

The use of Azelaic Acid and Benzoyl Peroxide in cosmetics is subject to strict regulations, as both are often classified as medicinal ingredients depending on the concentration and the country's laws.

1. Azelaic Acid

In many regions, including Thailand and the EU, pure Azelaic Acid is typically classified as a medicinal ingredient (Drug) rather than a cosmetic one, especially at therapeutic concentrations (such as 10-20%) used for treating acne or melasma.

However, in the cosmetic industry, derivatives of Azelaic Acid are widely used because they are safer, more stable, and comply with cosmetic regulations. These include:

  • Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (Azeloglicina): A water-soluble derivative that provides brightening and sebum-regulating benefits similar to Azelaic Acid but with less irritation. It is commonly used in serums and creams.
  • Azelamide MEA: Another derivative used for its skin-conditioning and anti-sebum properties.

2. Benzoyl Peroxide

Benzoyl Peroxide is strictly classified as a medicinal substance (Drug) for the treatment of acne. It is not permitted as an active ingredient in general skincare cosmetics (leave-on or wash-off products for the face/body).

  • Its use is limited to pharmaceutical products or over-the-counter (OTC) medications.
  • In the cosmetic field, it is occasionally found only in very specific applications, such as a catalyst in professional nail enhancement systems (e.g., dip powders), but it is not used for skin benefits in these cases.

Summary Recommendation

  • If you are looking for the benefits of Azelaic Acid in a cosmetic formulation, it is recommended to use Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate or Azelamide MEA.
  • If you require Benzoyl Peroxide, you must look for products registered as medicines or consult a pharmacist/dermatologist, as it cannot be legally formulated into a standard cosmetic product.

Suggested Cosmetic Ingredients:

  • Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™, e.q. Azeloglicina): A gentle, water-soluble cosmetic alternative.
  • Azelamide MEA: A derivative for oil control and skin clarity.