Using AHA 88% for Facial Exfoliation Cream

Thank you for your question regarding the use of 88% AHA for a facial exfoliation cream.

Using a high concentration of AHA like 88% requires extreme caution and significant dilution before applying to the skin. Applying AHA at such a high concentration directly to the face is highly dangerous and can cause severe burns and irritation.

For safe use in a facial exfoliation cream, the final concentration of AHA in the product needs to be significantly lower. Cosmetic regulations and guidelines typically recommend a maximum concentration of around 10-15% AHA for leave-on facial products, and up to 20-30% for wash-off products, depending on the specific AHA type and the product's pH. The pH of the final formulation is also crucial; it should ideally be between 3.0 and 4.0 for effective exfoliation with minimal irritation. A higher pH reduces the effectiveness, while a lower pH increases the risk of irritation and burns.

To formulate a cream using 88% AHA:

1. Dilution is essential: You must dilute the 88% AHA significantly to reach a safe concentration (e.g., 10-15% for leave-on). This involves calculating the correct amount of the 88% solution to add to your cream base.
2. pH Adjustment: After dilution, the pH of the final cream must be measured and adjusted to the safe range (pH 3.0-4.0). This usually requires adding a buffering agent or a pH adjuster.
3. Cream Base: You will need a suitable cream base that can incorporate the AHA solution and maintain stability.

Application Time:

For a facial exfoliation cream containing AHA at a safe concentration (e.g., 10-15% with appropriate pH), the application time depends on the product type and your skin's tolerance. For leave-on products, it is applied like a regular cream. For wash-off masks or treatments, start with a very short contact time (e.g., 1-2 minutes) and gradually increase as your skin builds tolerance, never exceeding the time recommended on the product instructions (if using a kit) or general guidelines (usually not more than 10-20 minutes for a mask, and even less for higher concentrations or sensitive skin).

Important Considerations:

• Working with high-concentration AHA requires knowledge of cosmetic formulation, safety protocols, and pH adjustment. Incorrect formulation can lead to skin damage.
• It is highly recommended to start with lower concentrations of AHA or use commercially available products formulated by experts if you are new to using AHA or formulating cosmetics.
• Always perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying a new AHA product to your entire face.
• AHA increases skin's sensitivity to the sun, so always use sunscreen daily when using AHA products.

Given the complexity and risks involved in formulating with 88% AHA, especially for facial use, it is strongly advised to seek guidance from a professional cosmetic chemist or use pre-formulated AHA products designed for safe home use.