Using Carbomer Ultrez 30 in Clear Shampoo: pH, Surfactants, and Alternatives
Question
How to use Carbomer Ultrez 30 in a clear shampoo formula, specifically regarding the timing of pH adjustment, its compatibility with Cocamidopropyl Betaine and non-ionic surfactants (without anionics), and recommendations for alternative thickeners suitable for clear formulas with a wide pH range?
Answer
Using Carbomer Ultrez 30 in Clear Shampoo Formulas
Regarding your questions about using Carbomer Ultrez 30 in a clear shampoo formula:
pH Adjustment: You typically do not need to adjust the pH of other ingredients before adding Carbomer Ultrez 30. You should disperse the Carbomer Ultrez 30 powder in the water phase first, ensuring it is fully hydrated. After it is dispersed, you add an alkali (like Triethanolamine or AMP) to neutralize the carbomer. This neutralization process is what causes the thickening and gel formation. The pH will be adjusted to the desired range (within 4-12 for Ultrez 30) during this neutralization step.
Using without Anionic Surfactants: Yes, you can use Carbomer Ultrez 30 with only Cocamidopropyl Betaine (an amphoteric surfactant) and non-ionic surfactants. Carbomer Ultrez 30 is known for its good electrolyte tolerance and wide pH range (4-12), which makes it compatible with various surfactant systems, including those without anionic surfactants. The combination of Cocamidopropyl Betaine and non-ionic surfactants is generally compatible with this type of carbomer.
Alternative Thickeners for Clear Formulas with Wide pH Range: Besides Carbomer Ultrez 30, another suitable option for clear formulas with a relatively wide pH range is Carbomer U21. It is also a self-wetting carbomer that produces clear gels and works in a pH range of 5-11. Carbomer U20 is another option with good electrolyte tolerance, but its mixing instructions suggest adjusting the pH to 6-7 for optimal thickening, which might be a narrower range than U30 or U21 depending on your target pH.
In summary, Carbomer Ultrez 30 is a good choice for your clear shampoo formula using amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants due to its wide pH range and electrolyte tolerance. Neutralization to adjust pH and thicken should be done after dispersing the carbomer in water. Carbomer U21 is also a viable alternative.