Using Glycolic Acid in Cream Formulas (under 5%)

Here are the answers to your questions regarding the use of glycolic acid at concentrations not exceeding 5% in face and body cream formulas for exfoliating melasma, dark spots, and scars:

1. Can it be used during the day and exposed to the sun normally?

Glycolic acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) that exfoliates the skin. This process can make the skin more sensitive to sunlight. Therefore, if you use a formula containing glycolic acid during the day, it is crucially important to apply broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF (SPF 30 or higher) and PA rating daily, and reapply as needed. Avoiding direct sun exposure is also recommended. However, many prefer to use glycolic acid products at night to minimize the risk of sun sensitivity.

2. Or should it only be used at night?

Using glycolic acid products at night is often recommended because it aligns with the skin's natural repair cycle and avoids immediate sun exposure after application, reducing the risk of photosensitivity. If you choose to use it during the day, strict sun protection is essential.

3. Is a concentration of 2-3% sufficient for the purpose of exfoliating melasma, dark spots, and scars?

A concentration of 2-3% glycolic acid can be effective for gentle exfoliation and improving skin texture. For addressing concerns like melasma, dark spots, and scars, this concentration can be beneficial, especially with consistent use. The effectiveness also depends on the pH of the final formula; for optimal results and safety for consumers, the pH should generally be between 3.5 and 4.0. Concentrations up to 5% are permitted for general consumer cosmetics according to FDA guidelines. If you require stronger exfoliation, higher concentrations (up to 10% for consumers with pH >= 3.5, or higher under medical supervision) might be considered, but this also increases the potential for irritation.

For reducing irritation, especially when using glycolic acid, you might consider types like Ampho-Glycolic™ or ActiveRelease™ Glycolic Acid, which are designed for gentler delivery while maintaining efficacy.

In summary, a 2-3% concentration can be a good starting point for addressing your concerns, but consistent use and proper sun protection (especially if used during the day) are key. Using it at night is a common practice to avoid sun sensitivity issues.