Using Glycols and emulPearl in Cleansing and Moisturizing Formulations
คำถาม
I have questions regarding the use of ingredients in cosmetic formulations:
1. `emulpearl`: The website states it dissolves in the oil phase. If I use it in a cleansing cream formulation, do I still need to add an emulsifier?
2. `glycol`: What is the appropriate amount to use in a cleansing cream or shower gel? Is 10% suitable for cleansing cream?
3. `glycol`: What is the appropriate amount to use in a body cream? Is 5% sufficient?
คำตอบ
Using Solvents like Propylene Glycol and Butylene Glycol in Formulations
The decision to include solvents such as propylene glycol or butylene glycol in cosmetic formulas like body lotion, shower gel, or face serum depends on the specific ingredients you are using and the desired characteristics of the final product.
These solvents serve several key functions:
- As a Solvent: They help dissolve ingredients that are not easily soluble in water or oil alone. For example, certain types of Centella Asiatica Extract, such as Pure-TECA™ Centella Asiatica Extract, require solvents like propylene glycol or butylene glycol, often with heat, to dissolve properly. Some Green Tea Extracts, like Hi-EGCG™ Green Tea Extract, are liquid and water-soluble, while others like Pure-EGCG™ Green Tea Extract are powders with low water solubility and may benefit from dispersion in a cream or gel base.
- As a Humectant: Propylene glycol can act as a humectant, attracting and retaining moisture in the skin, similar to glycerin.
- As a Penetration Enhancer: Glycols can improve the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin by helping them pass through both the water-based and oil-based layers of the skin.
Therefore, even if a formula contains water, glycols might be added to ensure certain ingredients are properly dissolved, to boost hydration, or to enhance ingredient delivery into the skin.
Making Lotion More Opaque
If you are using Light Cream Maker™ and want to achieve a more opaque, white appearance without using titanium dioxide, you can add a pearlizing agent like emulPearl™. emulPearl™ is available in both liquid (Dispersed Liquid) and flake/pellet forms and is designed to create a pearlescent or opaque look in various products.
Usage Percentage of Glycols
There is no single recommended percentage for using glycols like propylene glycol or butylene glycol in formulations. The optimal amount varies greatly depending on the specific purpose in the formula (e.g., dissolving a particular ingredient, desired skin feel, humectancy level) and the type of product (cleansing vs. moisturizing). For instance, in a cleansing product, a higher percentage might be used simply to improve spreadability, while in a moisturizing cream, a lower percentage might be sufficient for humectancy or penetration enhancement. You should determine the percentage based on the specific requirements and desired outcome of your formula.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Light Cream Maker™
emulPearl™ (Pearlizer, Dispersed Liquid)
emulPearl™ (Pearlizer, Flakes/Pellets)
Hi-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract)
Centella Asiatica Extract (Madecassoside 90%)