Using Honey in Cosmetic Formulations

Using honey in cosmetic formulations like hair conditioner, skin cream, and lotion is possible, aiming for natural treatment and moisturizing benefits. Here's a breakdown of your questions:

1. Emulsifying Honey in Oil-in-Water Formulas

Yes, honey can be incorporated into Oil-in-Water emulsions.

2. Mixing Phase

If using pure honey (not an extract), it should be mixed into the water phase as honey is water-soluble. If using a honey extract, the mixing phase depends on the extract's solubility. For example, Honey Extract (For Natural Honey Odor, Water-Dispersible) should be mixed in the water phase, while Honey Extract (For Natural Honey Odor, Oil-Soluble) should be mixed in the oil phase.

3. Type of Honey: Market Honey vs. Cosmetic Grade Extract

While you can technically add pure honey from the market, it is unlikely to provide significant treatment or moisturizing benefits in a cosmetic formula. The beneficial compounds in raw honey may not be stable or bioavailable in a formulation. To claim specific benefits, it is generally recommended to use cosmetic-grade honey extracts that have research or data supporting their efficacy. However, please note that some available honey extracts, such as Honey Extract (For Natural Honey Odor, Water-Dispersible) and Honey Extract (For Natural Honey Odor, Oil-Soluble), are primarily intended for natural scent and marketing claims, and their descriptions state there is no research on their efficacy for skin benefits.

4. Suitability of Preservatives

Both Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) and Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) can be used in formulations containing honey, provided the honey source is clean and free from a high microbial load.

• Phenoxyethanol SA (eq. Optiphen Plus) is a broad-spectrum preservative effective in formulas with a pH of 2.0-6.0. It is typically used at a rate of 0.5-1.25%. Your proposed 0.8% is within the typical range.
• Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free) is not classified as a preservative by the FDA and also functions as a humectant. It is effective in formulas with a pH of 4-9. For preservation purposes, it is typically recommended at a usage rate of 1.0-2.0%. Your proposed 0.2% might be too low for effective preservation, although it could contribute to moisturizing properties.

It is crucial to perform a challenge test on your final formulation to ensure the chosen preservative system is effective against microbial growth, especially when incorporating natural ingredients like honey.

5. Precautions for Use

• Microbial Contamination: Raw honey can contain spores or microorganisms. If using raw honey, ensure it is from a clean source or consider sterilization methods (like heating, if compatible with your formula and desired properties) to reduce microbial load before incorporating it. Using cosmetic-grade extracts can help mitigate this risk.
• Compatibility: Ensure the honey or honey extract is compatible with other ingredients in your formulation, especially regarding pH and temperature during processing.
• Preservative Efficacy: As mentioned, the effectiveness of your preservative system is critical when using natural ingredients. Always perform challenge testing.
• Viscosity: While honey has some viscosity, it may not be sufficient on its own to achieve the desired thickness for hair conditioner, cream, or lotion. You will likely need to use additional thickening agents.

By carefully considering the type of honey or extract, ensuring microbial control, and selecting an appropriate preservative system, you can successfully incorporate honey into your cosmetic formulations.