Using Lift-Now™ (Pullulan) in Lip Formulations

Asked by: ntharnath On: January 11, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I plan to use Lift-Now™ (Pullulan) in a lip formulation. How should I incorporate it, especially considering lip balm is often anhydrous? What effects can I expect from using Lift-Now™ on the lips? Is it suitable for achieving a lip plumping effect?

Answer

Using Pullulan (Lift-Now™) in Lip Balm

Pullulan, which is likely the key ingredient in Lift-Now™, is a water-soluble polysaccharide known for its film-forming properties that provide a temporary skin tightening effect. It is typically used in anti-aging formulas for this purpose.

Most lip balms are anhydrous (oil-based) formulations. Incorporating a water-soluble ingredient like Pullulan into an anhydrous system is challenging and would generally require creating an emulsified product (like a cream or lotion for lips), rather than a traditional lip balm stick or pot.

If you are formulating an emulsified lip product, Pullulan should be dissolved in the water phase.

The recommended usage rate for Pullulan is 0.1-5%. For a noticeable temporary tightening effect, a concentration of 3-5% is suggested.

If your goal is to achieve a lip plumping effect (making the lips appear fuller), an ingredient like InstantPlump™ (Methyl Nicotinate) might be more suitable. InstantPlump™ works by stimulating blood flow to the lips, causing a temporary swelling effect. It is oil-soluble and should be mixed into the oil phase at a recommended rate of 0.05-0.3%.

Please clarify if your primary goal is temporary tightening or lip plumping, as this will determine the most appropriate ingredient and formulation approach.

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