Using Papain for Exfoliation: Formulation (Gel) and Compatibility with Oil Cleansers

ถามโดย: nucandy_ เมื่อ: February 15, 2018 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I want to use Papain for gentle exfoliation to help with acne marks on dry, sensitive skin. I understand it can be used in water-based formulas. What are the specific requirements for using Papain in a formulation, such as the optimal pH range, temperature limitations during mixing, recommended storage temperature for the finished product, and the need for stabilizers like Disodium EDTA (and its recommended percentage)? Can Papain be mixed directly into oil-based cleansers like Oil Soap or Oil Milk, or should it be used in a separate product like a gel or cream?

คำตอบ

Gentle Exfoliation with Papain for Dry, Sensitive Skin

Papain is an effective enzyme for gentle skin exfoliation, suitable for addressing acne marks on dry, sensitive skin. To ensure its effectiveness and stability in a formulation, there are key factors to consider:

  • pH Level: The formula must have a pH between 5.5 and 7.0 for optimal Papain activity.
  • Temperature: Avoid exposing the formula to heat above 40°C during preparation. The finished product should ideally be stored at a low temperature (6-15°C) to maximize the enzyme's shelf life.
  • Stabilizer: Include 0.1-0.2% Disodium EDTA in the formula to help protect the enzyme from metal ions.

For a gentle gel formulation suitable for dry, sensitive skin, you could consider using a base like Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base. This base is hydrating and generally well-tolerated.

Sample Papain Gel Formulation Idea:

  • Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base: Up to 100%
  • Papain: 0.1-1.5% (recommended 1%)
  • Disodium EDTA: 0.1-0.2%

Instructions: Mix Disodium EDTA into the Hyaluronic Acid Gel Base first. Then, gently blend in the Papain powder in the final step, ensuring the temperature remains below 40°C. Avoid vigorous mixing that could denature the enzyme.

Using Papain with Oil Soap or Oil Milk

Papain is a water-soluble enzyme, and its activity decreases continuously once dissolved in water. Oil Soap and Oil Milk are oil-based cleansing products. Mixing Papain directly into oil-based formulas like Oil Soap or Oil Milk is generally not recommended for long-term stability and effectiveness, as the enzyme requires a specific aqueous environment and pH to function optimally and maintain its activity over time.

It is best to use products containing Papain (like the gel or cream you formulate) separately from your cleansing routine with Oil Soap or Oil Milk. You can cleanse your face with Oil Soap or Oil Milk and then apply the Papain gel or cream as a separate step in your skincare routine.

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