Using Penetration Enhancers in Skincare Formulas: Applications and Precautions
Question
What are the applications of penetration enhancers like Tetrahydropiperine in skincare formulas, such as anti-wrinkle, exfoliation, and whitening products? Are there any formulas, like those containing Salicylic Acid, where their use should be avoided or approached with caution due to potential skin irritation?
Answer
Using Penetration Enhancers in Skincare Formulas
Penetration enhancers, such as Tetrahydropiperine, are ingredients designed to help other active ingredients penetrate the skin more effectively. This can potentially boost the performance of a formula.
Applications in Different Formulas
Penetration enhancers can generally be used in various types of skincare formulas, including:
- Anti-wrinkle formulas: They can help deliver anti-aging peptides like Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (Matrixyl 3000) or Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 (Pep®-Mican) deeper into the skin to target wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.
- Exfoliation formulas: While ingredients like FruitPeel™ work on the skin's surface, a penetration enhancer might be considered depending on the specific exfoliating agent and desired depth of action, though caution is advised.
- Whitening formulas: Ingredients such as Aminoethylphosphinic Acid (AEPWhite™) or Hexylresorcinol AF can benefit from enhanced penetration to more effectively target melanin production and reduce dark spots.
Important Considerations
While versatile, penetration enhancers are not necessary for every formula and should be used judiciously. As noted, it's important to be cautious when combining penetration enhancers with ingredients that can cause skin irritation, such as Salicylic Acid. Increasing the penetration of an irritating ingredient can potentially increase the level of irritation experienced.
Always consider the specific active ingredients, the desired effect, and the potential for irritation when deciding whether to include a penetration enhancer in your formulation.
Related Products Mentioned
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Salicylic Acid (BHA, Pharma Grade)
FruitPeel™ exfoliates cells with fruit
Pep®-Mican (Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9)