Answers to Formulation Questions

1. Can Pitera be used as a base instead of water?

Yes, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (also known as Pitera) can be used as a base in formulations, potentially replacing water. It can be used at a concentration of 1-100% in various products such as gels, serums, lotions, or creams. However, if using Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate in high amounts, the overall preservative system of the formula should be considered. Some types of Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate may already contain preservatives, and adding more might result in an excessively high concentration of preservatives, which could cause irritation.

2. Can Sea Kelp be used as a base for moisturizer? If so, what percentage should be used with water?

Sea Kelp Extract has a liquid gel texture and can be used as an ingredient in moisturizers. The recommended usage rate is 1-10% (1-3% is recommended for skin, hair, and scalp care). It can be used at higher concentrations, but be mindful of potential stickiness and a possible fishy smell from seawater at very high rates. Using Sea Kelp Extract as the sole base might result in a texture that is too heavy or sticky for some. Mixing it with water or other ingredients in appropriate proportions can help improve the texture. The specific percentage of water will depend on the overall formulation and desired consistency, but the recommended range for Sea Kelp Extract is 1-10%.

3. Which is better to use, Polysorbate 20 or 80?

The choice between Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80 depends on the type of oil or substance you need to solubilize.

• Polysorbate 20 is suitable for solubilizing lighter oils. It is well-soluble in water and Glycerin but incompletely soluble (may cause turbidity) in oil.
• Polysorbate 80 is suitable for solubilizing heavier oils. It is well-soluble in both water and oil but not soluble in Glycerin.
  Therefore, you should choose the one that is appropriate for the ingredients in your formula.

4. Does Polysorbate keep the formula liquid and not change its texture?

Polysorbate 20 and Polysorbate 80 are oil-in-water emulsifiers/solubilizers. They are typically clear, slightly thick liquids. Using Polysorbate at an appropriate rate helps oils disperse well in water, keeping the formula homogenous and in liquid form. Generally, they do not significantly thicken the formula like gelling agents. However, using them in excessive amounts can lead to a sticky feeling on the skin.